How to tie down a Rune in a trailer?

[james]

I suspect this was covered on the old board but can anyone help me with the way to strap down a Rune in a trailer without damage?
Thanks, James.

[RedValk]

oh GOODY....you've hit one of my areas of REAL expertise :lol: They call me Trailer Queen....have trailer, will travel. I trailer one of my two Runes about once every other month....to somewhere....some rally.

Here is the scoop:

When they come from the factory, they are tied down to the case savers...and to a point under the seat. For mine, i had to attach higher than the case savers to get some leverage, so i attach at two points. One, i use soft ties to attach to the fork area right around the turn signal. This gives a really solid tie point. In addtion, for added stability, i use a "Canyon Dancer" ...which goes on the bars and provides another point of attachment. However, i do NOT crank down much on this attachment to the bars...and i don't recommend putting much pressure on a handle bar. you could actually bend your bar if you did!

For the rear, i had to see a Rune in the crate from the factory to figure this out. Remove the seat, then there are two black plates that attach to the frame with a single phillips screw. Remove the screw, remove the black plates on each side, and carefully 'snake' a soft tie under the exposed frame. You will probably need needle nose pliers to get the soft tie out form inside the frame. temporarily store the black plates for transport. To attach the STOCK seat, there is a place in the seat frame where the factory deliberately built a split in the frame of the seat for the strap to fit thru for trailering. If you have a Corbin seat, you don't have to 'worry' about this.

let me know if this all makes sense. I can elaborate if need be. In addition, i have soft material wrapped around my straps on the rear...to make sure they don't rub against the side of the bike and scuff it any. I should take some photos of all this some day. My next "Trailer Queen" adventure will probably be the Hoot, late June. The next one after that, InZane Valk/Rune rally late July.

Hope this helps....let me know if you need more details.

[HogSlayer]

Tim, Great Post! I'm saving a copy of that, Thanks man!

[RuneSki]

Tim
NO, NO, NO, You have that all WRONG. you don't know how to tie down a Rune :roll: . I had some warranty work done by my dealer ( Cycle World of Cherry Hill) back in December. When they picked the bike up I helped the guy tie and secure it like you just mentioned. BUT when THEY brought it back THEY tied the straps around the right front forks AND both BRAKE lines :shock: (one front line and one rear) he untied the bike himself before I got outside and noticed how it was strapped down. I did not ride the bike until the ice thawed in april. I then noticed a small amount of brake fluid splashing onto my gas tank and surrounding areas ( I had all the painted parts well waxed so it did not damage them ). I was baffled and could not figure out why and where it was coming from 'till I had my Rune parked next to Gene's Rune. I then compared the brake line routing and how they were curved and realized the brake lines were bent and how they got that way.
I called the dealer and described what I had discovered. The service mgr. asked me why I waited so long( like I was riding all winter with the snow and ice we had this year ) to contact him and denied his QUALIFIED technicians would do such a thing.
Rather than fight a losing battle with him Gene and I went to his dealer and told him the bike must have came from the factory like that. No questions asked, he ordered new brake lines and fixed it under warranty
Take care and good luck
Rich K ( Rune Ski )

[RedValk]

ahhh...but you see Rich, any VETERAN Trailer Queen like me knows dang well not to pull that ROOKIE mistake. I never tie around brake lines, wires, etc. Mine is done with soft ties....all on solid metal. My way is perfect. I'll have to take pics and show you some time.

Remember...i have been trailering my Valk....and my Road Star ....and now my Runes EVERYWHERE. Obviously, the guys that trailered yours didn't pay attention to detail. Shame on them.

Trust me...my bike comes out of trailering as IMMACULATE and PERFECT as it did going in. Hey, you remember how emaculate my red and white Valk was at the Home Coming last year? That bike has been trailered probably no less than about 50-60 times!!!!!!!!!! Already both my Runes have been trailered several times.

I looked at my bike, and i can tell EXACTLY where those guys must have strapped yours. Shame, shame on them. i do mine by the turn signal....and not against the brake lines. I'll take some pics from different angles and post them.

Trailer Queen

[RuneSki]

Tim
I know where your comin' from. Like I said, I did all the strapping down when he picked up my bike. But another person, er um, I mean DUMMY brought it back.
Take care
Rich K ( Rune Ski )

[james]

But then I guess we should have expected that :lol:
I just moved my Rune about 180 miles over some pretty ordinary roads in the back of what you guys would call a SUV. Luckily my dealer had retained the base frame from shipping and I put this into the cargo area then tied the bike in the same as Honda did for shipping - through the seat and through the engine savers. I used the same tie down ratchets as the factory used with no additional padding (unlike Redvalk) but I did not get any marks.

I will measure the frame soon and post the offsets so anyone can replicate the mounting points. About the only modification I would use next time is to fabricate a frame that goes over the seat frame points and then tie that down. Shall post pictures when I get it done. This mount would then stop the straps ever having contact with the chrome directly below the seat.

[SLO RNR]

You may have already solved your request. I just acquired a Rune and have transported it in my toy hauler.

The best and easy way to tie down any cycle is to have a Condor wheel chock. Or any other similar brand. The chock holds the bike up after you drive into it. It makes it a one man operation. Use soft straps on each side of the engine guards and draw them down ninety degrees to the bike. Then using another set of soft straps simply attach to the wheel spoke that is at the bottom on the wheel. Attach these at about 45 degrees to the front of the bike to pull it into the chock harder. Have the bike in gear. You're set to go

I have T-tracks to connect to because they provide more options for locating a mounting point. But D rings or eye bolt set in the right location are ok too.

The bike is very secure. I have trailered to Sturgis and Datona bike Week
for over 4k miles without the bike moving at all.

This might be another option for you to consider. Ride carefull.

[Afghanpilot]

I noticed in the last post, you stated that the motorcycle's put into gear for the transport. Anybody want to chime in on this? Can that ever put undue stress on the transmission during the move? Just a thought. :o4:

-Ollie

[3putt]

I don't think it really matters, because there appears to be enough play in the gears so a little rocking shouldn't hurt. I keep mine in neutral because I see no benefit in keeping the bike in gear. The important thing is how the tie downs are attached to the bike and how they are attached to the trailer. The tie-downs are what keep the bike from moving and should be secured in such a fashion the keeps the bike from moving forward or backward and side to side. A sturdy wheel choc is a good idea as well. Tip or Al will have the real answer as to how much play the gears can stand before damage occurs. There are other threads on how to tie a bike down.

[RedValk]

i ALWAYS keep mine in gear. don't want them to have ANY chance of rolling/moving.

and on non fuel injected bikes...ie my Valk.....ALWAYS shut the gas off. if you don't, fuel comes down through the carbs...into the engine....and you get raw gas in your oil.

but of course, on the Rune, there is no fuel valve....duh.

one more thing. I ALWAYS park any bike of mine in gear also. i NEVER leave one in neutral...other than MAYBE in my garage. Why you ask? i have seen MANY times someone bumped a bike that was parked in neutral....and....it rolled.....kick stand retracted.....boom. i'm not saying if someone bumps your bike HARD ENOUGH...that even in gear it might not be knocked off the stand.....but....i'm saying it would be MUCH harder to do so if the bike is in gear.

whether in the parking lot....or on a trailer....and MUCH MORE SO on a trailer, all my bikes get parked in gear.....or they don't get parked at all :wink: :roll: 8) :lol:

[3putt]

You raise a good point Tim...If Tom and Al are OK with leaving the bike in gear, then I will be changing my ways. :D

[asacuta]

Leaving a bike in gear while transporting it shouldn't damage anything. Don't forget the wheels aren't really locked when the bike is in gear; they are just coupled to the engine. Any force that would damage gears would likely cause the engine crank to rotate a bit, absorbing any shock against the compression of a closed cylinder.

Slight rocking against the gear lash shouldn't hurt anything either. That has to be way softer on the gears than engine brake to full throttle, which I'm sure we Rune riders do only occasionally. :wink:

[SLO RNR]

I've always left my bikes in gear when parked. Just a little precautionary measure with no side effects.

But in the trailer it is more necessary because I can't always get a level spot.
When I go to undo the straps, I may be alone and I don't want that sucker to start rolling on its own.

Ride safe.

[Damaged]

Yep!! Bike in gear. Dubble check the straps on the left side befor pulling on the the right. Stand up and pull the bike to you to make sure the left side is good. If you are pulling the staps nealed nexed to the bike and it falls.... That is a smashed Rune rider... thats a bad thing!!!

[Black Frog]

Ok, with all the trailer talk, what about RAMPS?

I'm looking at buying a new bike, but the UNLOADING has me really nervous. If I have to drive a considerable distance to buy my Rune during the winter, it will most likely be in a 5x12 enclosed U-Haul, or a U-Haul truck.

The offloading ramp at my house has me wondering. How long does the ramp need to be so the bike doesn't 'bottom out' in the middle, or contact the rear fender? I know that depends on how high the trailer or truck gate is too, but just looking for some suggestions to avoid some serious headaches down the road.

And if anyone has some pics of tie-down methods and tie-down anchor points on the bike, that would be great too. :)

[3putt]

I have done an enclosed U-haul-can't remember the size, however they make one that has a somewhat low ramp that pulls out from the bottem of the U-haul. Someone suggested loading the bike backward because it is easier to load than to unload. It is a little harder to tie down that way, but the off loading is safer. I prefer putting the bike in forward and getting help with the off loading, especially if the ramp is a little steep. Also you can back the trailer down into a ditch and change the angle of the ramp by using the back side of the ditch to support the ramp.; I think it all depends where you have the most help to steady the bike. U-haul also has an open trailer made specifically for bikes. The only problem with that one is the Rune doesn't fit properly and you have to tie off the back gate in a semi open position. If I were you, I would look for someone close to you that owns an enclosed trailer outfitted with tie-down anchors and a wheel choc. Maybe someone on this board has a trailer you can use. Any of the three options above work, but I hope someone from this board who owns a trailer lives near you can help.

[Black Frog]

Well I'm also looking at possibly flying into the destination city, renting a u-haul and driving back.

Question, do U-haul trucks have tie down anchors inside the cargo area? Do the trailers?

[3putt]

Black Frog....After rereading your question, I realize I did not answer it very well. On the length of the ramp. You will know if the ramp angle is too steep when you load the bike. It will hang up between the wheels. To lower the pitch of the ramp, the ditch idea I mentioned above works, or you can put something under the back end of the ramp and use some wood or bricks to essentially lengthen the ramp. The tie down process has been explained several times in other threads, but the way I do it is to put the front tire in a wheel choc. Wheel chocs are nice to have, but not totally necessary; however if you have one, use it because it makes the whole process easier. I use the crash bars for the main tie down points. I use 4 tie down to the crash bars. Two to keep the bike from moving forward and two to keep the bike from moving backward. All tied off to the floor. I tie them off at about 45 degrees front and rear. The crash bar tie downs are secured tight enough the the front shocks are depressed a little. I then tie the handle bars the same way but not so tight and they get tied off to the walls. I then tie off the rear wheel to the floor. Be careful of the rear fender. Make sure the tie downs are lower than the fender. That's a lot of overkill, but tie-downs are cheaper than bikes. I recently learned from this board to leave the bike in gear. I also check the bike everytime I get gas. There it is-good luck with your new rune.

[3putt]

U-haul trucks have anchors but not as many as a trailer designed for bike hauling; but enough to get the job done. What they don't have are wheel chocs, but as I said above, they are really nice to have, but one can tie off a bike without it. I haver seen some people tie the bike off on its kickstand, but I'm not a fan of that. I like them verticle. That said, I have yet to see one damaged by doing it that way.

[RedValk]

i've posted about gate lengths before. mine is 4 foot long...and that is probably the MINIMUM length to prevent the bottom from hitting. i have to be real careful on hills/slopes. i don't sit on the bike...i straddle it...and i put a small piece of wood under the gate when on slopes to get JUST enough clearance.

a 6 foot gate would be better. oh, if you have one of those skid plates that some folks have put on the bottom of their engines...you best be REAL SUPER CAREFUL about loading a Rune on any trailer!!!!!!!!!

[Black Frog]

Actually I've been tossing around ideas in my head for unloading off a truck or trailer.

I'm apprehensive about this because years ago I ALMOST had my brand new ZX-11 tip over or go off the ramp during unloading off of a pickup truck. That was scary, and I want nothing like it again. Lesson learned. :oops:

Since U-Haul trailers don't have ramps, I'm actually thinking about making a ramp out of three, 8' 2x10's (wide) with supporting members underneath. Easily made, and easily disassembled. Drywall screws, 2x6 verticle supports every 14" or so.

[Black Frog]

just locate a loading dock at both ends, the dealer you're buying from and the u-haul dealer should know of loading docks in the area, and the same goes for the U-haul dealer at this end when you return the truck/trailer..... But I want to off-load it right into my garage. Right now I have more than a foot of snow on the level. That's the reason I want to use an enclosed trailer or truck for the return trip. With all the snow and salt on the roads, I want to roll it down a ramp right into my garage for storage until April. Hopefully it'll be warm enough to tinker by then..... :)

....and of course with my luck, if I do by a new Rune this winter, I am just about guranteeing one of the longest winters on record.

[3putt]

Tim wrote:
oh, if you have one of those skid plates that some folks have put on the bottom of their engines...you best be REAL SUPER CAREFUL about loading a Rune on any trailer

I have been thinging about what you wrote and it finally occured to me that you are inferring that the bike will bottom out easier-I think. That hasn't been a problem for me, but I will pay more attention to that idea. I would think the smooth bottom of those lift plates would be a benefit because nothing gets caught. :idea:

[Black Frog]

That's IF I use a trailer. The other option is flying into the city where I might be buying the bike, renting a uhaul truck and then driving home.

I know some of the uhaul tucks have those pull-out loading ramps, but I have no idea what the weight rating is on those things....

[RedValk]

Tigerpawse can tell ya' what could happen if you have one of those plates on the bottom of your Rune....and ya' load it....and.............


he had an 'incident' at the Rune rally this year with that occuring i do believe.

Bottom line, the clearance is close as is stock....put something else down there that reduces clearance....and one must be very careful!

I've had mine hit a couple of times while loading on slopes up in the mountains. I always have Sherry...or someone standing nearby....watch the clearance for me. if it looks like it will hit...or if it JUST DOES TOUCH, i back up...and put another board under the gate. another trick some guys use is to leave the tongue attached (notice i said LEAVE IT ATTACHED....SKIBUM :wink: :oops: 8) :lol: )....and crank the dolly up as high as it will go...thus lifting the trailer tongue/front (as well as the back of your tow vehicle) up. this provides a 'shallower' angle at the rear of the trailer for loading and unloading.

of course, i don't recommend disconnecting the trailer....be it deliberately...or accidentally (again, not referring to anyone we know :wink: :roll: :oops: 8) :lol: )....to load and unload. Especially loading, there is a lot more force than you may realize produced riding that heavy bike onto the trailer!!!!

[Skibum]

:roll: 8) What? 8) :roll:
:oops: :oops: Who ME? :oops: :oops:

[JakesBoss]

:roll: 8) What? 8) :roll:
:oops: :oops: Who ME? :oops: :oops:

Now I thought watching the Keystone cops load a bike was very entertaining :wink: :)

[h3marine]

yall, I put my rune in the back of my 06 f150. all i did was stap it down by the handlebars w/ sheepskin seat belt pads for protection. i took her about 500 miles ( 20 miles of that was that super terible I-20 around marker 180 in alabama) no problems bike traveled well. To tell you the truth, I was more worried about my truck being over grosed than anything else.
Carl

[THUMPER]

I Have 2004 F150 Super Crew and and tie down down the same way 2 straps and the way we go...Back wheel sits on tailgate with 4 inches to spare. Not highly recommended, but been doing that for 35 years and have not lost one yet. Brought by First Rune home just that way 2300 miles 85 mph 90 mph most the way. Just make sure your using good straps.....

[SLO RNR]

Black Frog - I have an enclosed Trailer and it is possible if the timing of getting the Rune works out, I could make a run with you to get it I live in Ill. about 160 miles east of Chicago. It has a beaver tail - loading and unloading is easy. Condor chocks, t-tracks and all the strapping to haul three bikes.

If you locate one, let me know and I'll see if I can work the logistics out.

[hgslayr]

IH..Frog already got his rune a month ago...Nice gesture to help out though...

[SLO RNR]

Yikes - I guess I should read the dates. :oops: :oops: :oops:

[Davo]

oh GOODY....you've hit one of my areas of REAL expertise :lol: They call me Trailer Queen....have trailer, will travel. I trailer one of my two Runes about once every other month....to somewhere....some rally.

Here is the scoop:

When they come from the factory, they are tied down to the case savers...and to a point under the seat. For mine, i had to attach higher than the case savers to get some leverage, so i attach at two points. One, i use soft ties to attach to the fork area right around the turn signal. This gives a really solid tie point. In addtion, for added stability, i use a "Canyon Dancer" ...which goes on the bars and provides another point of attachment. However, i do NOT crank down much on this attachment to the bars...and i don't recommend putting much pressure on a handle bar. you could actually bend your bar if you did!

For the rear, i had to see a Rune in the crate from the factory to figure this out. Remove the seat, then there are two black plates that attach to the frame with a single phillips screw. Remove the screw, remove the black plates on each side, and carefully 'snake' a soft tie under the exposed frame. You will probably need needle nose pliers to get the soft tie out form inside the frame. temporarily store the black plates for transport. To attach the STOCK seat, there is a place in the seat frame where the factory deliberately built a split in the frame of the seat for the strap to fit thru for trailering. If you have a Corbin seat, you don't have to 'worry' about this.

let me know if this all makes sense. I can elaborate if need be. In addition, i have soft material wrapped around my straps on the rear...to make sure they don't rub against the side of the bike and scuff it any. I should take some photos of all this some day. My next "Trailer Queen" adventure will probably be the Hoot, late June. The next one after that, InZane Valk/Rune rally late July.

Hope this helps....let me know if you need more details.



O.K. Redvalk,, where's the pics??

Davo

[sermonator]

oh GOODY....you've hit one of my areas of REAL expertise :lol: They call me Trailer Queen....have trailer, will travel. I trailer one of my two Runes about once every other month....to somewhere....some rally.

Here is the scoop:

When they come from the factory, they are tied down to the case savers...and to a point under the seat. For mine, i had to attach higher than the case savers to get some leverage, so i attach at two points. One, i use soft ties to attach to the fork area right around the turn signal. This gives a really solid tie point. In addtion, for added stability, i use a "Canyon Dancer" ...which goes on the bars and provides another point of attachment. However, i do NOT crank down much on this attachment to the bars...and i don't recommend putting much pressure on a handle bar. you could actually bend your bar if you did!

For the rear, i had to see a Rune in the crate from the factory to figure this out. Remove the seat, then there are two black plates that attach to the frame with a single phillips screw. Remove the screw, remove the black plates on each side, and carefully 'snake' a soft tie under the exposed frame. You will probably need needle nose pliers to get the soft tie out form inside the frame. temporarily store the black plates for transport. To attach the STOCK seat, there is a place in the seat frame where the factory deliberately built a split in the frame of the seat for the strap to fit thru for trailering. If you have a Corbin seat, you don't have to 'worry' about this.

let me know if this all makes sense. I can elaborate if need be. In addition, i have soft material wrapped around my straps on the rear...to make sure they don't rub against the side of the bike and scuff it any. I should take some photos of all this some day. My next "Trailer Queen" adventure will probably be the Hoot, late June. The next one after that, InZane Valk/Rune rally late July.

Hope this helps....let me know if you need more details.

What Tim said! ..... Serminator

[Red Wolf]

Ok guys I am going to need some help here. I will soon be making a trip to Illinois to pick up the Rune I have recently purchased from trooper. I have been looking at buying a utility trailer to use for the move since I can use one around the homestead to move other things. Will a 5'X8' trailer work for the Rune? And please post pics on how to tie the Rune down. I have always tied down my other bikes using the handlebars. But after reading these threads I am really feeling uncomfortable about the trailering altogether.
I had planned on tying down on handle bars and around the rear tire. Since don't have a chock was going to use 2"X8" pieces of wood and after the bike is in place butt the wood up against the tire and screw them down to the bed of the trailer.
But now I am feeling very insecure about the whole process.
So HELP PLEASE I don't want to hurt my Rune! :o4:

Red Wolf

[Dr. Dave]

I use an open 5x10 aluminum trailer with a fold down ramp, generically called a "landscape trailer" The chock is a must, it is relatively inexpensive and makes everything more secure. Mine detaches so that I can use all of the bed. I installed 6 flush tiedowns in the floor; and use cam straps (always pulling forward) hooked to the crash bars, the handle bars, and the rear wheel. I strap it down TIGHT...:)

[3putt]

If your 5X8' trailer has a tailgate, then it is not long enough. Without a tailgate, the rear part of the bike will extend past the end of the trailer. A 5X10', as mentioned above would be better. Pinching the front tire with
2X4's will work, but for $50 you can buy a wheel choc that can be used elsewhere. A good wheel choc is about $300 and will really lock that bike
in place. For a one time trailer job, the 2X4 works. I would use the crash bars for most of the tie-down support and tie off the handle bars but not so tight as those handle bars can bend. You should be able to lock in the front of the bike to the front of the trailer so it doesn't move front to rear. Tie off the crash bars with 4 tie downs and angle them 45 degrees front and rear. Remove the seat and use some soft ties to lock into the frame for some side support. Same with the handle bars. Most important-USE GOOD TIE DOWN STRAPS. After you have tied down the bike, it should feel very solid in place. Drive 50 miles and check everything and keep checking every gas stop.

[Z06]

I put my new Rune in the back of my Tundra. They loaded it with a table lift in Chattanooga, TN and I ran 75-85 MPH all the way back to Scottsdale, AZ with no issues. Getting it off was another story. Here it is Easter Sunday and no shops open then I thought about the skateboard park down the road. I backed it up to one of the retaining walls and unloaded it in about 5 minutes. 8) Thanked the kids for taking a time out and I was on my way.

Cheers,

J

[gmassey]

I thought about the skateboard park down the road. I backed it up to one of the retaining walls and unloaded it in about 5 minutes. 8) Thanked the kids for taking a time out and I was on my way.

I don't care who ya' are that there is dang funny! And creative! Nice color by the way.

[JakesBoss]

any ditch will do for loading and unloading:)
I use 3 heavy 2 inch ratchet type straps like the one below
http://customtiedowns.com/images/stock_prod/crhd2-y20j.jpg
I strap both engine guards and 1 strap through the rear wheel


never ever use the the cam type like the one below
http://customtiedowns.com/images/stock_prod/ccb1-y6s.jpg
http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/30512/2304763290102135704S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2304763290102135704iIIbMc)

[Red Wolf]

Thanks guy for the input, I must say though it has thrown a bit of sand in the gears for me. Don't really want to buy a 10' trailer but..... may have to. I'll get new tie down straps but may have to work something out with trooper about picking it up when the weather gets a bit better and just ride it back home. :rain1:

[Gars]

Ok guys I am going to need some help here. I will soon be making a trip to Illinois to pick up the Rune I have recently purchased from trooper.

Red Wolf

Let me know when you'll be here. I'm a bit north, but would love to drive down and say hello to you two if the timing permits.

Gary

[Gars]

Ok guys I am going to need some help here. I will soon be making a trip to Illinois to pick up the Rune I have recently purchased from trooper. I have been looking at buying a utility trailer to use for the move since I can use one around the homestead to move other things. Will a 5'X8' trailer work for the Rune? And please post pics on how to tie the Rune down. I have always tied down my other bikes using the handlebars. But after reading these threads I am really feeling uncomfortable about the trailering altogether.
I had planned on tying down on handle bars and around the rear tire. Since don't have a chock was going to use 2"X8" pieces of wood and after the bike is in place butt the wood up against the tire and screw them down to the bed of the trailer.
But now I am feeling very insecure about the whole process.
So HELP PLEASE I don't want to hurt my Rune! :o4:

Red Wolf

I put the Rune in gear and tied it down to four places, two in the front and two under the rear seat as was recommended to me.

I would not advise you to wrap a tie around the rear tire. If one of the front ties would break, that rear tie does nothing. If you use two rear ties to the frame and one of the front were to break, the rear would still hold the bike.

What are the odds of a tie breaking? Don't know. Never had it happen. What are the odds of a D ring breaking from the trailer's floor? I had that happen! Thank goodness for the advice of using four ratchet ties, two to the front bars and two to the frame under the seat. It keep the Rune upright and safe until we repaired the front D ring.

Want to be extra safe? Use two more ties to the front forks as added safety.

Whatever you spend on safety will pay for itself in un needed repairs to the Rune.:pepper1:

I don't see why using two 2x4 along each side of th Rune's tires whould not work instead of a chock. The dual 2x4's would keep the tires/wheels from moving from side to side better than a chock would.

You could just use I bolts through the trailer's floor (with washers on both sides and a lock washer) to anchor the ties to.

You don't want the ties to touch any paint and as little metal as possible.

You don't want anything touching the paint. Not a cover, not a loose piece of the tie.

Anything that could rub has the potential to abrade the paint.

Attach the tie to the front crash bar as high as possible. Use one tie for each side. They should be tight. compress the springs. Since you are using ratcheting ties and not cam ties, with someone sitting on the bike and holding it vertical tighten one side down just till it can be felt when you are holding the bike vertical. Then tighten the other side down. The bike should be held equally by both sides and at the same time be vertical.

You should be still sitting on the bike. It should be vertical. It should have two ties holding it vertical.

Then tighten one side by one ratchet and then tighten the other side by one ratchet until you can't tighten either side any more.

This isn't all that tight. Those ratchet levers are not very long and you can't get too much pressure on them.

Now add the two rear ties in a similar fashion. You're still sitting on the bike. Your assistant (or vice versa) adds the tie to the right side and then to the left side. Tighten one side til it just starts to hold the bike and then do the same for the other side. The goal is to have the bike vertical with equal tension on both sides. Then tighten one side a bit more and then the alternate side until its snug.

The bike is now vertical and has all four ties very tight. It is important to keep the bike vertical at all times. This keeps the bike from putting the least amount of strain on the ties at all times. The weight of the bike should be 100% the wheels and that is achieved by having the bike vertical. That bike is so heavy you don't want any extra forces being transmitted through the ties.

Now get off the bike. It will be super tight now because you weight has compressed the springs.

Make sure it's still vertical and in gear.

I'd think with you 2x4 on each side of the wheels forming a cradle the bike would ride well.

And last, but not least, make sure you have insurance on the bike before you transport it, JUST IN CASE!

Here's a picture of where you tie to the rear of the Rune's frame. I used a soft tie to wrap around the frame and the tie hooked to that. I'll see if I can find a better picture.

This shows the adjustment of the rear shock, but the frame is black and just above this cylinder.

http://static.motorcyclecruiser.com/_SiteConfigs/_global/images/no_photo_100px.gif (http://image.motorcyclecruiser.com/f/9428358/lg+2004_honda_valkyrie_rune+shock_adjustment_view. jpg)

[RedValk]

some notes....from a guy who trailers MANY, MANY times......thousands of miles.....year after year....bike after bike (and proudly....without hesitation or regret :pepper1: :clap2:):

1. Aggreed on the avoiding of the cam type straps. first time i tried to use those straps on my Valk years ago....i strapped down ....got ready to leave on a long trip...drove down my long gravel driveway....and at the bottom of the driveway.....i have a kind of semi steep hill at the end of the driveway, i look in my mirror back at the trailer, and the Valk is SLOWLY starting to lean over......starting to GO DOWN. the cam mechanism was ALREADY FAILING....in my driveway no less. It didn't even make it a quarter of a mile. Cam type straps are ok on the BACK of the bike....IF you have good wratcheting straps up front. But cam alone, can't be counted on to hold BIG bikes. The Rune.....she's a "big un"....... I use BIG HEAVY DUTY ratcheting straps...the big "gorilla' ones available from Kuryakyn....

2. Speaking of straps, YES...they can break. i've had two break all the years and miles i've been trailering. SO.........it's a good idea to use a) high quality heavy duty straps.....b) check them frequently for wear and tear...and REPLACE them as needed (a 30-50 dollar strap...is a WHOLE LOT CHEAPER....than repairing a 15-25k bike that has fallen over!)......c) double strap on the front. I ALWAYS double strap on the front....two per side on the front.....in case.....ONE FAILS! my primary front straps go on the fork tubes.....as i want my leverage point high....and i want my primary straps on a very solid mount. i put a SECONDARY set of straps on my handlebars....using a "canyon dancer" system. HOWEVER, i do NOT wratchet down hard on the bars...and would NEVER do it on the bars as a PRIMARY strapping....for fear of bending the bars. in fact, that's how we straightened out Quinn's bent bars after his accident at Erwin. I hooked one of my ratcheting straps to his bars on one end....to his case saver bar on the other end....and simply ratcheted the strap until i bent his bars back to near original shape! likewise, ratcheting on your bars for trailering COULD bend them....IF....you overdue it. And of course, make sure you don't accidentally route your straps around any brakelines, etc.....or those too, can of course....be ruined! Some strap to the case saver bar. This MAY be ok....but as an Engineer, i prefer strapping higher for increased leverage/stability. It's a physics problem.............

3. aggreed on the rubbing of paint. you don't want ANYTHING beating against your paint for 100s of miles in the back of that trailer. Lose ends of straps are included in this list. i tie off ALL excess strap material. even a strap or cover or piece of cloth....whipping/beating/rubbing against the paint...for 100s of miles...with road dust/etc......will leave swirls/mars in your clearcoat! Make sure you secure ANY lose materials of any kind..........

Trailer Queen out..............

[Gars]

http://www.runeriders.com/forum/album.php?albumid=20

Here's a link to my directory.

God only knows why I uploaded them in the order 1, 2, and 3 and they are displayed in the order 3, 2, and 1, but they are.

To access this rear tie down point you'll have to remove the seat. Trooper should be able to help you with that and then remove a couple of panels that come off with hex bolts.

Two pictures will show you how to remove the seat and the first picture shows the frame tie down point.

BTW, Tim is whose advice I took when I trailer the bike! Thanks!

Here's a link to the Kuryakyn heavy ties:

http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=6153&str=9&ID=86697

to soft ties:

http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=2753&str=9&ID=86697

[RedValk]

picture three is the money shot. that's what i do, remove the seat....remove those black sub-side panels by removing ONE bolt on the top of each....take a soft tie....SNEAK/SLIP it thru the frame (can be kind of hard to do....i use needle nose pliers to help get it thru).

Leave the black sub panels OFF while trailering. you can put the seat back on. If a STOCK seat, look under the seat. There is an area under the seat pan where the factory deliberately designed the seat to have a split area on the seat supports. Put/run your straps thru THAT SPLIT...or...the seat will NOT go back on.

If you have a Corbin seat (as i do on both my Runes)....you need to move the soft ties back as far as you can....to get the seat to latch again.

Or, you could trailer without the seat on. I prefer to put the seat back on, so folks looking at the bike can admire all of it's full beauty :mrgreen:

[Gars]

Tim has done this many times. I've done it once.

[Dr. Dave]

I should have read my post more carefully...
I said cam straps meaning the ratchet type heavy strap.
I too had a cam type lighter strap fail. I looked in my mirror and my then new rune was leaning. Turns out one strap had broken, and one was slipping.
Tim is right, trailer queen that he is, BIG STRAPS are better...and they are cheaper than any kind of repair.:clap2::clap2:

[RedValk]

i couldn't agree more Dave. Nothing like seeing your baby.....leaning.....going.........over........... .

Once ONE cam type strap fails for any reason, the other three are all suspect now to "giving in". On my Valks, i have used cam type devices on the REAR....with ratcheting ones on the front.

on the Runes, i just always use ratcheting all the way around. Peace of mind.................. :clap2:

[Gars]

Just don't do this:

http://www.runeriders.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=20&pictureid=68

:clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2: :clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2:

[Gars]

Here's how the Runes come from the factory: N.B. the ties to the crash bars and to the rear seat frame. I think Tim also supplied this picture that I saved.

Look at the bottom front picture to see where they are tied.

http://www.runeriders.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=20&pictureid=67

[Red Wolf]

Well after discussing this with the wife I am now thinking about just using one of the motor cycle transport companies. Figure it is going to cost about $1400 for the purchase of the trailer and a hitch.

Anyone had any experience with the following motorcycle transport companies?
JC Motorcycle Transport
Depenable Auto Shippers
Allied Federal Motorcycle Transport

Thanks
Red Wolf
Wade :amflag:

[Dr. Dave]

That sure is a pretty sight, all of those runes stacked up.
The one and only time I had a bike shipped, it cost me enough that I decided to buy my trailer.
Now I can't do without the trailer. :)

[Gars]

http://www.runeriders.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6850&highlight=rune+shipping

[RedValk]

well put Dave. For YEARS and YEARS....i never owned a trailer. rode everywhere....put 20-30,000 miles on my bikes a year....etc (heck, i didn't even own a car until i married Sherry...ALL I HAD ....was a bike for my transportation for years!). then, in 97....i went to a rally....i can't even remember which one....and borrowed a trailer. it POURED down rain ALL THE WAY THERE...and ALL THE WAY BACK. 100s of miles. And while at the rally, a vendor had a SUPER SALE on motorcycle lifts. But, you HAD to buy it and take possession AT THE RALLY....as they didn't want to have to ship these 100 pound lifts. But....i had a truck and trailer, so .....NO PROBLEM! got my lift for a steal (and still have it of course!).

Then, over the years, i've hauled my bikes on rare occassions they've broke down. I've hauled them to the dealer 30 miles from my country house when they had problems like Big Black Smoke and wouldn't run....shouldn't be run. I've hauled other folks bikes that have broken down (yes, MOST OF THEM HONDAS). i've gone to rallies 1000 miles away......when it was threatening snow when i left....and i just jumped in the truck and trailer...at the last second....drove the 1000 miles thru the night....with ZERO concerns about the weather.

i've hauled untold tons of stuff to rallies that I PUT ON.....prizes for you guys....DJ equipment....supplies..... (couldn't do that on a bike!)

The list goes on and on and on. I've also hauled John Deer tractors....hay....etc.....with that same trailer.

Nah, everytime some FOOL bashes me or others for having/using a trailer, i just shake my head knowing all too well how foolish and silly THEY LOOK, for saying such ridiculous things. MY HAT GOES OFF....to folks who ride all over the country side....who ride great distance to events....etc. I have nothing but respect for them........

BUT..........to slam someone for having/using a trailer, has to be one of the most ignorant and arrogant things to do. Yet...........some do..............go figure ;-) 8)

Like you said, NOW...i could NEVER live without one. Add in that i have neck problems...and Sherry fractured her back in three places from a bad horse barrel racing accident years ago....and her back HAS NEVER BEEN THE SAME SINCE....so we simply can't ride long distances (in short periods) anymore.......the trailer is a LIFE SAVER!!!!!!!!! :pepper1: :clap2:

Until you've owned a trailer....or walked a mile in "our" shoes.....don't judge what ya' don't know............

I hope some day when i retire....IF that day ever comes...i can take another longer bike trip....RIDING the bike....with plenty of time to just meander along and go where i'm gettin'. but as long as i'm punching the time card with LIMITED time off, there WILL be a trailer in my life!

PS....the map below IS ACCURATE. Those are states i have RIDDEN a bike in or thru................it doesn't count trailer miles. I have "trailered" with a bike thru Arkansas and Indiana ....but that don't count.......:yes: :lol: :amflag:

[Gars]

Well after discussing this with the wife I am now thinking about just using one of the motor cycle transport companies. Figure it is going to cost about $1400 for the purchase of the trailer and a hitch.

Do you have a friend with a trailer that would be willing to help?:pepper1:

I used this option. We had a great adventure, saved some money, (gas was <$2 a gallon) and gave my friend a $100 gift certificate to a local eatery.:clap2:

That being said, hiring a transport company is a lot easier, but I'd make sure I had the bike insured before the transport company gets a hold of it.

If it's damaged while they are transporting it they SHOULD have insurance to cover it, but if there is a problem and they balk at fixing it or simply don't have insurance, your policy will cover you and your insurance company will fight with them.

Most companies insure the bike for the NADA or Blue Book values listed. It does not cover additional equipment unless you specify it at the time of insurance. :banghead: Be sure to ask your agent what additional equipment is covered.

I'm so jaded I'd get it in writing. Oral contracts are valid, but not enforceable.

Yes, I'm a pessimist, but I get stung less the more pessimistic I become.;-)

And yes, the Rune is worth the hassle!

[3putt]

Yes Tim....your last post is a very well thought out piece of work. I agree with every word. Those of us who own trailers have them for varying reasons and we use them in accordance with our needs. Trailers are not for everyone and the biggest reason not to have a trailer is because one has no place to store it when not in use. When I bought mine, I thought it would be for hauling bikes. That trailer gets used for hauling all sorts of things in addition to bikes.
There are several members who ride long distances and my hat is off to them. I think Donna would ride circles inside her garage on an inclemant day. Not all of us are that passionate about riding and not all of us have the physical ability to ride long distances-some of us are paying for youthful indescretions. I enjoy the long rides when there are others also riding but going a long distance on an innerstate alone is boring to me.
Every person has their own way to getting things done and we will all end up at Irwin this year ready to ride and hang out with friends. :amflag:

[Dr. Dave]

Wow! That's a nice looking rig.
Mine is an aluma as well. But with out the additional front shield, to keep it as light as possible.
I tow it behind my AWD volvo, and have put quite a few miles on it hauling my bike to Denver for service. I also move my snow removal equipment on it (atv with plow, and snowblower)
The recessed tie downs in the floor also allow for hauling other stuff.
Even though it's a pain to store, and to get around it for snow removal; I wouldn't be without it.....;-)

[JakesBoss]

I borrowed this one from my buddy Ron/Dog when I brought the RIII home ;-):pepper1::lol:

http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/23399/2556851870102135704S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2556851870102135704HPvDGr)

http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/10811/2537334320102135704S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2537334320102135704EuBzLm)

[Gars]

Any :new:progress on bringing the Rune home?
:pepper1: :biker: :pepper1: :beer2:

[Red Wolf]

Nope, went by and looked at trailers again, guess in the long run it might be better to get a trailer at least I will have a way to move things around when needed, just don't need to spend another $1400 at this time. I really want to get this baby home, trooper has been gracious enough to say I can leave it there until the weather gets better and I can ride it home but I would really like to get it before then cause if I remember right Illinois can have longg winters. :rain1:

[Gars]

I don't have a lot of experience trailering Runes like Tim does, but I have done it once.

If I can be of any help, please let me know. I'm usually free Friday, Saturday, & Sunday.

I could run down and help you tie the Rune down if you'd like.

By the same token, I'm happy to mind my own business!

I went from centeral Illinois to Georgia to pick up the Rune in November 2008.

I only had Tim's directions for tying down a Rune to guide me. The fellow I bought the Rune from had the shop do all of his work so he didn't know how to get the Corbin seat off.:confused: It took a while to figure that out. The bike had Corbin Saddle bags on it so the key slot was pretty well hidden.

Despite the rocky start, all went well.

[Red Wolf]

Thanks for the offer Gary, when I get a plan finalized for picking it up I will let you know and we can go from there. At this time I am still vasalating from having it shipped to buying a trailer and going up there to pick it up. I will admit to a bit of concern about the weather sure wouldn't want to get there and then have ice or snowed in roads or lousy weather bringing it home on an open trailer. How are things in Decatur I haven't been there in a long while! :)

[RedValk]

Decatur....been there many times. Born in Vandalia....relatives live in Clinton, Centralia, Vandalia, Salem......Grandparents (when they were living) were in Vandalia. Uncle owned a barber shop in Clinton. His boys still live in Clinton/Decatur area....I do believe.............

Keep us posted on getting that Rune home. you can do it!

[Gars]

Thanks for the offer Gary, when I get a plan finalized for picking it up I will let you know and we can go from there. At this time I am still vasalating from having it shipped to buying a trailer and going up there to pick it up. I will admit to a bit of concern about the weather sure wouldn't want to get there and then have ice or snowed in roads or lousy weather bringing it home on an open trailer. How are things in Decatur I haven't been there in a long while! :)

I understand your situation. I'd never trailered a bike before the Rune; always rode them home. True, once in a while that meant riding in heavy rain, but baptism is good, right? 8)

There's more to it than buying the trailer, time, gas, and the challenge of something new. I don't blame you for not wanting to experiment with the Rune.

Decatur is pretty much the same as it has been for the last several years.

We didn't see the big real estate boom so we didn't see the bust.

We see the occasional new restaurant or store, but now I'm hearing some of them are going to close.

I think our biggest problem are drugs. It seems there are more drug related crimes than ever before. Not many make the news, but they get reported in the Decatur Tribune. There weren't many in this weeks paper. It seems like crime took a holiday over Christmas, or maybe just the police.

[Gars]

Decatur....been there many times. Born in Vandalia....relatives live in Clinton, Centralia, Vandalia, Salem......Grandparents (when they were living) were in Vandalia. Uncle owned a barber shop in Clinton. His boys still live in Clinton/Decatur area....I do believe.............


It is a small world.

I have friends from Vandalia. One of the town's physicians sons and I went to college together in Decatur. Dr. Rames was his name.

I have another friend down there from professional school, but I won't claim him as an acquaintance!

I worked (as an employee) at the Vandalia correctional facility when I was first out of school. I still remember the smell from the saw mill as I drove down from Decatur.

I was always glad to leave that facility at night mainly because the residents couldn't!

[RedValk]

My Grandfather (Burrel Denton) worked at the State "farm" all his adult life. i'm not sure when he retired...would have been some time ago. Probably more than 20 years ago!

I have cousins who work in Vandalia at various places. My uncle who lives in Clinton owned a barber shop most his adult life. his name is Leroy Sugg. Another uncle worked for Bell Telephone all his adult life in the Vandalia/Centralia/Effingham areas. his name is Wally Bertram.

Several of those relatives are ham radio operators....as I am. Ya' never know, our paths...or one of my relative's paths ....may have crossed at some time in the past..........

i go back to Vandalia/Centralia about every two years. I don't get up to Clinton/Decatur much anymore. Two of my cousins live in the Clinton/Decatur area....but i have no idea what they do for a living? They would be in their 40s.....their last name would be Sugg.

Small world indeed........... :clap2: 8)

[Gars]

Several of those relatives are ham radio operators....as I am. Ya' never know, our paths...or one of my relative's paths ....may have crossed at some time in the past..........


Small world indeed........... :clap2: 8)

I have surely met some of them in ham radio.

First licensed in 1992 as N9PLQ, currently using W9DMD as a call sign.

I did a lot in the digital modes in the '90's, both terrestrial and satellite, but not much in the last 5 years.

Not much in the satellite arena now and PSK is getting pretty long in the tooth.

Currently the "en vogue" darlings are FDMDV digital SSB voice and the newer D Star digital FM radios, repeaters, and world wide gateways.

I have to laugh when the teenagers think they invented "texting." I tell them ham radio operators had it 60 years ago and telegraph operators had it 100 years before them. What's old is new again.

[RedValk]

K4TK. I'm a CW man....DX chaser........

My Grandfather was W9IJE. Now, my Uncle has his call (thanks to the vanity system). I think my Uncle used to be KA9BKI.

[Red Wolf]

Well I bought a trailer today so now am waiting for some decent weather and roads and I will be heading north to get my Rune :pepper1:

[Dr. Dave]

:clap2::clap2::clap2:

[KenCrawleySC]

Gars
Well I'll be. You are W9DMD.
I've been WB4ENE since 1966 (age 13)/KG6 on Guam island.
You will have to check out some of my Ham stuff on my website:
http://ken.crawley.org/6.html

Now I KNOW you will be able to figure out your microphone problem in SKYPE!

ken

[BUY LOW]

I use very heavy duty ratchet straps on the case savers, another HD ratchet strap on the rear wheel, and a set of medium duty ratchet straps from the bars to the E-Track on the sides of my trailer. I don't tie down the bars really tight, just good and snug. The big straps hold the bike down and the smaller straps hold it from rocking side to side. While I'm sure it is against most people's good judgement I rode inside the trailer for a short trip going over a few bumps and turns. The bike didn't budge a bit.

One additional point I didn't see previously is the strength of the chock mounts. I installed my Pingel chocks with full back plates under the trailer floor with lock washers and lock nuts. They aren't going anywhere...but just in case, the strapping method would allow the bike to be pulled forward and backward as well as side to side (from the bars) so if (Ha, that'll never happen) my chocks failed the bike should remain upright.

Anyone see any faults with my technique? I'm always open to ideas to better take care of my baby.

[Steve 522]

all sounds good to me...my motto has always been when the bike is tied down add another strap !!! I learned this years ago people would laugh at me the way i tied my bikes down, then on a trip to the mountains I-75 was under construction and the road dropped about 2 inches at 70 mph my best friend pulling his bike had the bike fall over and do several hundred $$$ in damage...I had six bikes on my trailer and none budged...he quit laughing......my only special deal is i do not compress any shock over about 70 % so the bike's shocks can still work


good luck

[Gars]

Anyone see any faults with my technique? I'm always open to ideas to better take care of my baby.

Sounds good except for riding in the trailer with it. That could do permanent damage to you costing several hundred thousand dollars damage to the biological unit.

Motorcycle parts, by comparison, are cheap and that's what insurance is for.

I had the bike insured the day before I actually bought it so there would be no problems with an accident on the first day.

:biker:

[JakesBoss]

You guys are thinking way to hard about this:twisted:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8vggli15no

[Gars]

The Illinois folks are ahead of you all: :a13:

http://www.runeriders.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=20&pictureid=68

[gypsy]

you can push that bike all over the garage or drive with stand down and it will not come up and fall over. saw a demo guys proved it

[phat6]

oh GOODY....you've hit one of my areas of REAL expertise :lol: They call me Trailer Queen....have trailer, will travel. I trailer one of my two Runes about once every other month....to somewhere....some rally.

Here is the scoop:

When they come from the factory, they are tied down to the case savers...and to a point under the seat. For mine, i had to attach higher than the case savers to get some leverage, so i attach at two points. One, i use soft ties to attach to the fork area right around the turn signal. This gives a really solid tie point. In addtion, for added stability, i use a "Canyon Dancer" ...which goes on the bars and provides another point of attachment. However, i do NOT crank down much on this attachment to the bars...and i don't recommend putting much pressure on a handle bar. you could actually bend your bar if you did!

For the rear, i had to see a Rune in the crate from the factory to figure this out. Remove the seat, then there are two black plates that attach to the frame with a single phillips screw. Remove the screw, remove the black plates on each side, and carefully 'snake' a soft tie under the exposed frame. You will probably need needle nose pliers to get the soft tie out form inside the frame. temporarily store the black plates for transport. To attach the STOCK seat, there is a place in the seat frame where the factory deliberately built a split in the frame of the seat for the strap to fit thru for trailering. If you have a Corbin seat, you don't have to 'worry' about this.

let me know if this all makes sense. I can elaborate if need be. In addition, i have soft material wrapped around my straps on the rear...to make sure they don't rub against the side of the bike and scuff it any. I should take some photos of all this some day. My next "Trailer Queen" adventure will probably be the Hoot, late June. The next one after that, InZane Valk/Rune rally late July.

Hope this helps....let me know if you need more details.

Some pictures would have been nice (I should have taken some too!), but I was able to figure it out from your description. Worked great. Thanks.

[KillaMark8]

For the rear, i had to see a Rune in the crate from the factory to figure this out. Remove the seat, then there are two black plates that attach to the frame with a single phillips screw. Remove the screw, remove the black plates on each side, and carefully 'snake' a soft tie under the exposed frame. You will probably need needle nose pliers to get the soft tie out form inside the frame. temporarily store the black plates for transport. To attach the STOCK seat, there is a place in the seat frame where the factory deliberately built a split in the frame of the seat for the strap to fit thru for trailering. If you have a Corbin seat, you don't have to 'worry' about this.



Tim,
Can you eloborate or provide a picture of the rear tie down location. I checked last night, I could not find it (maybe its my old eyes :22yikes: failing on me).

If anyone can assit, I would greatly appreciate it.

[Dr. Dave]

Step 1: Remove seat
Step 2: Remove small black frame covers that have one screw each.

They are the little black covers on the top of the chrome side covers...:grin:

[KillaMark8]

Step 1: Remove seat
Step 2: Remove small black frame covers that have one screw each.

They are the little black covers on the top of the chrome side covers...:grin:

I see it now.

Thanks Doc and MO.

Appreciate it! :clap2:

[RedValk]

I see it now.

Thanks Doc and MO.

Appreciate it! :clap2:

yep, what they said.........bingo............ :clap2:

[KillaMark8]

Thanks all, got my new toy home safe and sound.