Battery replace
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Thread: Battery replace

  1. #1
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    Default Battery replace

    My 05 VTX still has the original battery. When should i replace it.
    I see these new type, lithium ion that weigh way less & are rated to last way longer without a trickle charge. I saw em on ebay tonight, i feel like such a bleeping dinosaur after seeing this technology.

    My 87 year old Mom tells me about this machine the other night, her girlfriend, that you hook it to your windshield & it will tell you where to go if you don't know how to get there. I cracked up
    laughing over that one. And i still stick a bleeping compass to my windshield.

    Funny, because i have never had a trickle charger, i just go out to the garage & fire her up every 1 to 2 months in the winter & voila.

    Also, is this true?, i have heard that instead of just idling at about 1,000 rpm or so, it takes at least 2500 rpm to charge the battery, something to do with the charging system,
    not like it is a 71 Torino, my 1st car.

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    Smoking Keyboard Member smilin' Jack's Avatar
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    When it won't hold a charge overnight!! My 97 Valk had it's origanil battery for 7 years! It groaned in January after 5 months of not being used, and again sometime in spring time when it was time to get out and riding again. After the first strained start it fired up quick and easy for the entire summer. And that's without a battery tender!! I haven't been as lucky with the rune as I have left the light on too many times and managed to kill several batteries, I'm hoping the new gel unit will still be up for the chalange come spring!!

    Jack
    member since 11/03 . . . post <2,000 . . . attitude "goofball"

  4. #3
    Jersey Boy Skibum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by runejoeyrune View Post
    My 05 VTX still has the original battery. When should i replace it.
    Tuesday
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skibum View Post
    Tuesday
    haha, good one John. My 04 Nissan truck battery just bit the dust this past spring, 9 + years.
    Lucky i was on a hill & caught it in gear.

    Now, the other question, do i have to have the rpm's @ 2,500 or above to charge the battery while it is running. Or was the guy at the dealership yanking my chain.

  7. #5
    Jersey Boy Skibum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by runejoeyrune View Post

    Now, the other question, do i have to have the rpm's @ 2,500 or above to charge the battery while it is running. Or was the guy at the dealership yanking my chain.
    I have no idea, but I'll ask.
    AL?
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  8. #6
    Iron Butt RuneLoon's Avatar
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    I just replaced the original battery in my Rune last month. Build date 01/04.

    I could tell my battery was getting weak, it didn't spin the engine over as quickly when it was cold... but I wanted to see just how long I could milk it. In the end, all it took to kill mine was not riding it for a week (it was raining) and it would not start the next time I tried it. I already had her replacement on the shelf in the garage waiting to be built.
    Nate
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  9. #7
    Smoking Keyboard Member smilin' Jack's Avatar
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    The dealer was fairly correct on the 2500 mark, most charging systems work best above idle. In my motorhome, I would start it just before bed for 10 minutes at high idel to assure a full charge on the batteries thru the night at the ski resort!
    And remember everytime you start the engine up you want to get the entire motor up to working temps for a few minutes to help from getting condensation in your motor as it cools, or to be more specific, to dry out the condensation from the last time!! so you don't increase the amount of condensation buildup in the engine and in the oil!!
    I'd recomend around 15 minutes run time! But then I had a heated garage and avoided much of that but only ran the bike on new years day for the sake of the first ride of the year!!
    That's what the tender is supposed to do but it doesn't always get the job done!! but it is better than nothing.

    Jack
    member since 11/03 . . . post <2,000 . . . attitude "goofball"

  10. #8
    Iron Butt RuneLoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by runejoeyrune View Post
    do i have to have the rpm's @ 2,500 or above to charge the battery while it is running. Or was the guy at the dealership yanking my chain.
    That is debatable, but charging systems DO have more output at higher RPM's. It really depends on the additional electrical accessory you have on your bike whether or not it will charge the battery at idle. If you have not added any lights or other load, then you may be OK. I did find this thread on the GL1800 board... it's worth a read. Your VTX charging system may be quite a bit different than the Rune or the GL1800 though.
    Nate
    IBA # 33388 - HotLanta, GA


    "Some cause happiness wherever they go; others, whenever they go."
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  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilin' Jack View Post
    The dealer was fairly correct on the 2500 mark, most charging systems work best above idle. In my motorhome, I would start it just before bed for 10 minutes at high idel to assure a full charge on the batteries thru the night at the ski resort!
    And remember everytime you start the engine up you want to get the entire motor up to working temps for a few minutes to help from getting condensation in your motor as it cools, or to be more specific, to dry out the condensation from the last time!! so you don't increase the amount of condensation buildup in the engine and in the oil!!
    I'd recomend around 15 minutes run time! But then I had a heated garage and avoided much of that but only ran the bike on new years day for the sake of the first ride of the year!!
    That's what the tender is supposed to do but it doesn't always get the job done!! but it is better than nothing.

    Jack
    I run it for at least 30 minutes so all the condensation is not lying in the exhaust after shutting it down.
    But still curious about having to run at 2,500 rpm to charge it & for how long, maybe something to do with an electrical component?????????????

    Although i have a breakaway throttle lock so i don't have to stand there & hold the throttle.

    If you ride long distances & don't have one of these, you should get one.

    As Kenny Bania says, "Thats gold Jerry, GOLD".

  12. #10
    Wild Hog Keyboard's Avatar
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    I recommend using a battery tender like the Battery Tender Junior (BJT). They are cheap, ~$25 or less. You will not have to play the game of firing up the bike just to keep the battery charged.





    I have 4 bikes and keep each on a BTJ during the winter months. I do not (and you will not) have to fire the bikes up just to keep the battery charged. Others may have differing opinions. But, so far I have not had a problem with a dead battery when the season starts.

    BTW, your mom's story was funny. We have yet to reach that magical state of being left behind by technology.
    2004 Candy Black Cherry NRX1800EB

  13. #11
    Member thegrumpyone's Avatar
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    Last year I bought (2) Ballistic 16 cell 100-014 on sale on e bay for around $250 a piece. One for the Rune the other for my Royal Star, the only way to go for me. Did the Wal-Mart thing, didn't last a year. It's only

  14. #12
    Smoking Keyboard Member smilin' Jack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by runejoeyrune View Post
    I run it for at least 30 minutes so all the condensation is not lying in the exhaust after shutting it down.
    But still curious about having to run at 2,500 rpm to charge it & for how long, maybe something to do with an electrical component?????????????

    Although i have a breakaway throttle lock so i don't have to stand there & hold the throttle.

    If you ride long distances & don't have one of these, you should get one.

    As Kenny Bania says, "Thats gold Jerry, GOLD".
    O.K. it's not the condensation in the exhaust that is the problem, it's the condensation that forms inside the engine itself that is the problem. If you live in a cold winter area the engine will form condensation as the engine cools, running the engine long enough to dry out this moisture that is now in the oil will keep you in the O.K. zone!! If you only run ANY motor just long enough to build up heat but not long enough to dry out the oil will increase the amout of condensation each time and will over time start to corode internal parts. ( hydraulic trouble shooter 101)
    As to the hi idle rule, most chargeing system are designed to provide ample amperage to maintain your vehicles battery at idle, the twist is, "designed" as there are always things out of the design spectrum that come up, it is just safer to suggest one use a high idle instead of low idle, just to be cover if a accessory was pluged in! My rule is ride it or park it with a tender! Giving the battery a little boost in the spring is much simpler than wondering the state of internal conditions. Hence just like your favorite boat, fuel supliment, engine foger, battery tender, and if at all possible a warm dry inviroment for winter storage is much safer! And that's put away with fresh oil and low fuel, I top of with hi test and seafoam in spring and change the oil again, real cheap insurance.

    and this is why I try to make it simple to start with . . . . then I don't have to go to lengths about all the if's and's and but's . . .I love the K.I.S.S. theory . . . . And I rarely disclose how I get mills running like a top either . . . .I tell them I just "Laid my hand on it!"

    Jack
    member since 11/03 . . . post <2,000 . . . attitude "goofball"

  15. #13
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    i replaced my battery after 3 years.
    since then i have started using deep cycle battery.
    i am very much happy with its performance.
    one good thing about deep cycle battery is you can use it in solar panels also i am using same battery in my solar panel which is on rooftop

    best deep cycle battery for solar this guide will help you to purchase one good deep cycle battery

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