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Thread: Seat Latch

  1. #21
    Member CrimsonRune's Avatar
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    I was just thinking. Can we even get these cables any longer? I don't believe I have to replace mine yet, but I am damn sure going to make sure it is plenty lubricated to get as much life out of it as possible. But with parts getting impossible to find for these, I would think it may be necessary to have a cable made for this application.

    Quote Originally Posted by RedValk View Post
    The real lesson learned is as you stated in the original post....don't get to this point! Of course, if ones' cable breaks (and it has done that on BOTH my old Valks....they're over 20 years old).....you're in for this drill I would think........
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  3. #22
    Member Skip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RUNE517 View Post
    spray PB Blaster onto the exposed nuts
    Not sure what good blasting peanut butter anywhere will do much good, but hey, I'm always willing to learn...

    Hey 517; do you really service the Rune neked?

    You Mericans are a strange bunch...

    skip
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  4. #23
    Member MO Rune Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip View Post
    Not sure what good blasting peanut butter anywhere will do much good, but hey, I'm always willing to learn...

    Hey 517; do you really service the Rune neked?

    You Mericans are a strange bunch...

    skip

    SMH - and grinning.

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  6. #24
    Smoking Keyboard Member Dr. Dave's Avatar
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    RUNE517 a hair dyer and straps PB onto the exposed nuts to wiggle My foreman.......
    I think this is the strangest thread ever!!
    Dr Dave

  7. #25
    Jersey Boy Skibum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedValk View Post
    John ....just a question....once he removes the 3 nuts (i think it is nuts on that side)....I know the seat will come off SOME....but how much slack will he have with the cable in the metal tubing? It's not like he can TOTALLY remove the seat at that point, correct? Isn't the cable still attached....and in that metal tubing. Just curious....as to how much slack you have at that point to get to the latch mechanism. Seems like there wouldn't be MUCH slack at that point? Assuming his cable isn't broken (as he has stated).

    I'm just curious.............

    The real lesson learned is as you stated in the original post....don't get to this point! Of course, if ones' cable breaks (and it has done that on BOTH my old Valks....they're over 20 years old).....you're in for this drill I would think........
    Yes once you have the bolts removed you can access the latch and disconnect it from the seat.

    Read Dan's post, some good ideas in there.
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  8. #26
    Member CrimsonRune's Avatar
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    Thank you. I will let you all know how it goes this weekend.


    Quote Originally Posted by MO Rune Rider View Post
    I'm betting with the right giggling and wiggling while someone else is holding the key towards OPEN, you are going to be able to get it to let go on it's own. Good luck.
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  9. #27
    Administrator RedValk's Avatar
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    Good point on the cable probably not breaking on a Rune. My Valks.....there is no tube protecting the cable. They're exposed so to speak.....behind sidecovers and the like. Both bikes (I have two Valks) cables broke just a little over the 20 year point....right where they connect to the latch mechanism. But on a valk, pulling off a sidecover and removing the radiator reservoir and using long needle nose pliers, you can get to the latch mechanism. So both times I was able to get the seat off with somewhat relative ease.

    When Crimson Rune asked if we could even "get the cable any longer".....my mind went to thinking why does he want the cable to be a longer length? Finally it occurred to me, he meant....can we still get the cable

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  10. #28
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    Default Broken Latch Mechanism

    Once upon a time my latch mechanism broke and needed to be unbolted from the bottom, removed and replaced.

  11. #29
    Member CrimsonRune's Avatar
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    *Update* I am very happy to say that getting those 3 nuts off from under the fender did the trick. I was able to lift the whole seat up 4 inches or so with the latch and release the seat. Upon inspection, it appears the latch had become so loose that the cable had disconnected. No amount of pushing on the seat and turning the key would have done anything. I dropped the rear tire a bit to make reassembly a bit easier by hand.

    Here is a helpful tip I figured out if any of you all should have to do this again in the future. Instead of trying to squeeze my arm in between the tire and fender, once the bike was lifted in the air I positioned a light on the nuts and used a series of socket extensions and a universal joint with a 10mm socket. It took some patience but they came right off. An extendable magnet also helps with keeping track of the washer and nuts instead of just falling and searching for them.
    2004 CBC Honda Rune
    2006 "Passion Red" Kawasaki ZX-14
    2010 Can Am Outlander 800 MAX LTD (red of course)
    1994 Black/Purple Suzuki RF900R (sold)

    "We judge ourselves by what we feel capable of doing, while others judge us by what we have already done" - Longfellow

  12. #30
    Member MO Rune Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrimsonRune View Post
    *Update* I am very happy to say that getting those 3 nuts off from under the fender did the trick. I was able to lift the whole seat up 4 inches or so with the latch and release the seat. Upon inspection, it appears the latch had become so loose that the cable had disconnected. No amount of pushing on the seat and turning the key would have done anything. I dropped the rear tire a bit to make reassembly a bit easier by hand.

    Here is a helpful tip I figured out if any of you all should have to do this again in the future. Instead of trying to squeeze my arm in between the tire and fender, once the bike was lifted in the air I positioned a light on the nuts and used a series of socket extensions and a universal joint with a 10mm socket. It took some patience but they came right off. An extendable magnet also helps with keeping track of the washer and nuts instead of just falling and searching for them.
    Good to see you got it fixed.

  13. #31
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    I would suggest having a helper hold the key in the unlock position while you hit the seat down with your hand just behind half way back. its possible that the seat was set up to tight not allowing the latch to disengage! as for the top little side cover plates, they only have a short finger about 1/8" long on the bottom, but they won't allow any real access even if you pry them out of the way. I would try to fashion a pry bar to pull back on the latch nuts. AFTER tying the key in the open position, securely first!
    As my bike is 50miles away, I can't give you any better ideas. just go slow and easy so you don't do any bad damage. be carful not to twist the key in half!

    Good luck, remember your not the first to have this problem, it's just so lon since any of us old farts have had this problem that we have forgotten the trick to get it resolved!

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