My next projects (Horn replacement and coolant change)
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Thread: My next projects (Horn replacement and coolant change)

  1. #1
    Member CrimsonRune's Avatar
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    Default My next projects (Horn replacement and coolant change)

    So I have wanted to replace the horn pretty much since day 1. I am finally going to take the time to make it happen and have been looking into how to make that happen. It looks like I need to take the radiator shroud off (I've seen the posts about cracks so will be watching out for those) to get good access to the horn and I figure I might as well change out the coolant while I have it apart. So far a have been having a really miserable time with the bottom plastic fasteners holding the shrouds together. I may be able to go up underneath without taking the shrouds off but I am curious what your experiences have been. Also, what are your thoughts on these different horns and if you had to choose between a High or Low tone, which would you go for?

    Wolo (315-2T) Loud One Horn - 12 Volt, High Tone
    by Amazon.com
    Learn more: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BRFG..._4UHOEbXF65090

    Wolo (310-2T) Loud One Horn - 12 Volt, Low Tone
    by BaiFM
    Learn more: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00029XG..._62HOEb5SGDYEB

    Not sure I would have room for this one but may be worth considering

    SUPER LOUD MARCO TORNADO Compact Air Horn for ALL 12V Vehicles: Motorcycles, Cars, & Trucks
    by Sumex International LLC
    Learn more: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01FMN90..._Q3HOEb01X0KYR

    Lastly, have you folks run into any issues changing out the coolant or is it pretty straight forward ? Also do you still use Mother Honda's or is there another brand you favor ?

    As always, thank you in advance.

    Matt
    2004 CBC Honda Rune
    2006 "Passion Red" Kawasaki ZX-14
    2010 Can Am Outlander 800 MAX LTD (red of course)
    1994 Black/Purple Suzuki RF900R (sold)

    "We judge ourselves by what we feel capable of doing, while others judge us by what we have already done" - Longfellow

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  3. #2
    Member kencrawley-wa's Avatar
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    Default coolant

    Evans NPG+ propyleneglycol coolant, waterless.
    Then no corrosion happens.
    Boils at 273F at room pressure.

    Lots of posts back in 05' year range. Ran 2-up w/a lady up Pike's Peak and no issues.

    ken

  4. #3
    Member CrimsonRune's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kencrawley-wa View Post
    Evans NPG+ propyleneglycol coolant, waterless.
    Then no corrosion happens.
    Boils at 273F at room pressure.

    Lots of posts back in 05' year range. Ran 2-up w/a lady up Pike's Peak and no issues.

    ken
    I was considering going with Engine Ice but the idea of Evan's "lifelong coolant" is pretty appealing. Thanks Ken.

    One question I have - In comparing the 2 products, Engine Ice has a Boil point of 256F. According to Evan's website, The waterless coolant has a boiling point between 369F-375F depending on the NPG Racing coolant or Powersports version. Isn't the cooler temp better for the Rune ?
    Last edited by CrimsonRune; 04-27-2020 at 10:58 AM.
    2004 CBC Honda Rune
    2006 "Passion Red" Kawasaki ZX-14
    2010 Can Am Outlander 800 MAX LTD (red of course)
    1994 Black/Purple Suzuki RF900R (sold)

    "We judge ourselves by what we feel capable of doing, while others judge us by what we have already done" - Longfellow

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  6. #4
    Member CrimsonRune's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrimsonRune View Post
    I was considering going with Engine Ice but the idea of Evan's "lifelong coolant" is pretty appealing. Thanks Ken.

    One question I have - In comparing the 2 products, Engine Ice has a Boil point of 256F. According to Evan's website, The waterless coolant has a boiling point between 369F-375F depending on the NPG Racing coolant or Powersports version. Isn't the cooler temp better for the Rune ?
    So I have been thinking about this some more. The lower boiling point of Engine Ice makes sense given the water content boiling at 212F. So I guess the real question is which will be a more favorable operating temp in the Rune. Thoughts ?
    2004 CBC Honda Rune
    2006 "Passion Red" Kawasaki ZX-14
    2010 Can Am Outlander 800 MAX LTD (red of course)
    1994 Black/Purple Suzuki RF900R (sold)

    "We judge ourselves by what we feel capable of doing, while others judge us by what we have already done" - Longfellow

  7. #5
    Member MO Rune Rider's Avatar
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    Personally, I'd go with the cheap green schiit from Wal-Mart and call it good. It was good enough for Mother Honda to install from the factory and also - I'm cheap, cheap in that respect. I've had the green junk in my 04 all these years, and in the wife's 04, and it has yet to ever let me down in either Rune. Others my concur or vehemently argue the finer details with different results. But hey, it's your money.

  8. #6
    Administrator RedValk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MO Rune Rider View Post
    Personally, I'd go with the cheap green schiit from Wal-Mart and call it good. It was good enough for Mother Honda to install from the factory and also - I'm cheap, cheap in that respect. I've had the green junk in my 04 all these years, and in the wife's 04, and it has yet to ever let me down in either Rune. Others my concur or vehemently argue the finer details with different results. But hey, it's your money.
    somewhat agree. As I've said many times before, I go with what Mother Honda says.....can't go wrong with Honda products...and the interval the manual calls for. Take my 1997 Valkyrie. Going on 129,000 miles now....23 years old. I use Mother Honda antifreeze....and only change at the recommended interval. Same on the Runes. And as I've said many times before on here and elsewhere, if it works for my friend and his 98 Valk with CLOSE TO 500,000 miles on it now, it will work on mine.................until I die or no longer have them.

    I just see ZERO reason to go with anything else? But that's me.........others may vary. But I'm an Engineer................and I believe most companies that design products now days, the Engineers working for them most likely know EXACTLY what they are doing and recommending. I'm going with what they say when it comes to fluids and recommended intervals...............

    Perhaps if you were racing or doing some other extreme activity it would warrant some other approach? Though........................in the vast majority of cases...............I kind of doubt it.

    Next subject? Tires? what oil is best? Democrat or Republican? Guns? Religion? Sex?

    ....click on the map to see details on what areas of the globe have visited my profile



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  9. #7
    Frequent Poster (>1000 posts) pete in Mena's Avatar
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    >>>GUNS!!!!! they are bad, bad, bad, get rid of them all.<<<

    I agree ... and you should give them to me to be safely disposed of
    It's too bad that "common sense" isn't

    pete in Mena
    '09 GL1800 CBC Goldwing ABS '04 CBC chrome Rune

  10. #8
    Jersey Boy
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    Guns are safe !!
    People + are the problem, with anything, guns, autos, cycles, etc !
    Rich

  11. #9
    Member CrimsonRune's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuneSki View Post
    Guns are safe !!
    People + are the problem, with anything, guns, autos, cycles, etc !
    Rich
    2004 CBC Honda Rune
    2006 "Passion Red" Kawasaki ZX-14
    2010 Can Am Outlander 800 MAX LTD (red of course)
    1994 Black/Purple Suzuki RF900R (sold)

    "We judge ourselves by what we feel capable of doing, while others judge us by what we have already done" - Longfellow

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