Trailering - best securing bike method
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Thread: Trailering - best securing bike method

  1. #1
    Member BUY LOW's Avatar
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    Default Trailering - best securing bike method

    If you have never trailered your Rune please don’t respond. For those who are regular trailering riders, where do you attach tie down straps to the bike? I’m asking because I don’t trust the handlebars and can’t see using the forks where shown due to brake fittings. I’ve used the engine guards with success...so far. I also ratchet strap the rear wheel with rearward pull to offset the forward pressure on the chock. I also put lighter ratchet straps side to side to add extra safety should the chock fail. I use Pingle chocks. I’ve trailered a few thousand miles with no issues. However, recently it was pointed out to me by a moto mechanic I trust that I’m putting too much forward pressure on my chock and should the chock fail I’d be in trouble. FYI, the chock is the type with two pins that mount into a bracket bolted to the trailer floor. What do you guys think? Advice appreciated from those with Rune trailering experience.
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    2005 Rune (CBC) (AKA "The Lambo")

    "Whether you believe you can accomplish something or not, you are probably right."
    http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/

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  3. #2
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    Default Canyon Dancer

    I've successfully used a Canyon Dancer with rear straps and backup front straps

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    Member BUY LOW's Avatar
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    Thanks Saint. I have a couple of Canyon Dancers I used on my race bikes years ago. Perhaps in combination with straps attached to the engine guards which would allow me to reduce the forward pulling pressure on the lower straps. Hmmm

    Anyone else?
    2005 Rune (CBC) (AKA "The Lambo")

    "Whether you believe you can accomplish something or not, you are probably right."
    http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/

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    Frequent Poster (>1000 posts) Falcon Wing's Avatar
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    Default

    tow.jpg

    Using a Uhaul motorcycle trailer (no wheel chock needed). I used a canyondancer on the handle bars, AND ratchet straps on each crash bar. Applied most tension on crash bars, and firm tension on handlebars as I recall.
    01 IR Wing
    04 CBC Rune

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    Frequent Poster (>1000 posts) pete in Mena's Avatar
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    I use cheaper beefier Harbor Freight chocks and they've worked fine on all the big bikes including the Rune. I like them better than the Pingle I mounted in the enclosed trailer because they mount with 4 beefy bolts. No worry about pulling the tires too tightly into the chock.
    Soft ties from the forks; soft ties from the engine guards, ratchet straps to tighten. For the rear, I mounted flush hooks and use a ratchet strap through the wheel to the 2 hooks ... stops any sideways movement. Did use a 'U' rail on the floor for awhile but got tired of mounting/unmounting when using the trailer for non-bike stuff.
    Not a super fan of trailering but when circumstances dictate, it has worked fine. I'd guess the Rune has been trailered about 4k miles and the Wing at least double without any issues.
    It's too bad that "common sense" isn't

    pete in Mena
    '09 GL1800 CBC Goldwing ABS '04 CBC chrome Rune

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    Administrator RedValk's Avatar
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    Of course, like most things on here....discussed and answered long ago. A quick search brought THE ANSWER in great detail. Here is the thread on "all things trailering". READ THRU IT. If you don't read thru it, you'll think you have some "reason not to follow some advice" at the top part of the thread....only to find if you read thru the whole thread, any objection or argument you may have has already been made and answered...debated and debunkded. Like the argument to "not attach to forks". Wrong, already debunked. If done properly, attaching to the forks....is a great place (and of course, making sure you don't do something stupid like pinching a brake line or wire because of improper/negligent strap placement)....the forks provide some of the most solid support for tie down on the front. The case savers in many implementations, gives you minimal leverage and stability. Not saying you can't use the case savers in SOME implementations, but far more leverage can be obtained on the forks. My Runes have been trailered now.....some 17 years after purchase, literally....about one hundred times....honest. I'm well known as a "trailer queen". I've trailered NUMEROUS bikes....many, many times....and many, many miles. My two Runes.....have trailered as far north as Ohio, as far East as Johnson City TN, as far South as Panama City Beach and as far West as Arkansas and Missouri.....and EVERYWHERE in between. I can load and strap them down in my sleep.............and I've never left a mark on them or any damage. PERIOD. I use Pingel wheel chocks....and always (of course) pull forward with all sets of straps. I'm using THREE sets.....the front forks are the main attachment on the front...with a Canyon dancer on the handlebars as BACK UP ONLY....and NOT cranked down. You could literally bend the bars with a big ratcheting strap if cranked down fully on the bars! And of course, I ONLY use ratcheting straps. Anything else, would be asking for trouble on this big bike. The back is the "under the seat" per the factory crate tie down method. Again, read the trailering link......................

    The link.............

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  9. #7
    Member MO Rune Rider's Avatar
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    In my RV, I have the same pingle chocks installed. My rune has broken one of the bolts holding the pingle together on ONE occasion. I, too, use a tiedown attached through the rear wheel and then rearward for addt'l braking to prevent undue stress on the pingles during stops. Like Tim said, I think the forks are the most solid mounting point, and so, I use the 16" long straps with loops at each end to attach around each fork, being careful to not go around any brake line or wiring when threading them around the forks. I attach those loose ends to the tiedown straps going forward of the pingles. I also attach straps to the engine guards and forward to the floor attachment points. Due to the softness of Honda paints, I use shoulder pads made for added padding on automotive seat belts to Velcro around the straps where they pass through the rear wheel so I can crank the back strap fairly tight without worrying about damaging wheel paint.

    Of course this was all years ago, before adding the trailer hitch and converting over to riding to our destinations rather than trailering to them. We do still trailer up our Runes on some occasions, but not often. We trailer up our Yamahammers most everywhere we take them because of their poor fuel range and lack of storage areas to carry 'stuff', and use the same tiedown methods as with our Runes.

  10. #8
    Member BUY LOW's Avatar
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    Evidently I used the wrong words in my pre-posting search. Sorry about that.

    I must use the Pingle chocks with floor brackets shown in my 1st post because my buddy has a Big Dog Chopper and requires a skinny chock vs the fatty chock for my Rune. We have 3 chock mounts and are able to trailer up to 3 bikes in our 7x14 Interstate trailer as long as the chopper is in the middle.

    I’ve tried placing my padded double loop ended straps on the forks just above the lower fork clamps (at the turn signal location). Haven’t been comfortable with the brake fitting being in jeopardy. I’ll have to check it again because I believe what y’all are saying about that position being much better than elsewhere.

    Thanks for all the input. Portland, OR to Yellowstone then on to the Black Hills trip in late July.
    2005 Rune (CBC) (AKA "The Lambo")

    "Whether you believe you can accomplish something or not, you are probably right."
    http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/

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    Administrator RedValk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUY LOW View Post
    Evidently I used the wrong words in my pre-posting search. Sorry about that.

    I must use the Pingle chocks with floor brackets shown in my 1st post because my buddy has a Big Dog Chopper and requires a skinny chock vs the fatty chock for my Rune. We have 3 chock mounts and are able to trailer up to 3 bikes in our 7x14 Interstate trailer as long as the chopper is in the middle.

    I’ve tried placing my padded double loop ended straps on the forks just above the lower fork clamps (at the turn signal location). Haven’t been comfortable with the brake fitting being in jeopardy. I’ll have to check it again because I believe what y’all are saying about that position being much better than elsewhere.

    Thanks for all the input. Portland, OR to Yellowstone then on to the Black Hills trip in late July.
    Just carefully place the straps to avoid the brakelines and you will be fine. You're talking about the right area to do it securely. I use soft ties to wrap around the forks right near the turn signal area.

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  12. #10
    Member MO Rune Rider's Avatar
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    And be sure to drape both ends of the soft tie UNDER the turn signal so that when cranked down tight, the strap isn't pulling the signal stock downward.

  13. #11
    Member BUY LOW's Avatar
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    The gap between the fork and the brake fittings is tight! Picked up a set of these as my swanky lamb fleece covered straps will not fit. These barely fit.
    6AE19647-5C6B-41F8-9ED4-B447C5E8D6F6.jpg
    2005 Rune (CBC) (AKA "The Lambo")

    "Whether you believe you can accomplish something or not, you are probably right."
    http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/

  14. #12
    Member MO Rune Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUY LOW View Post
    The gap between the fork and the brake fittings is tight! Picked up a set of these as my swanky lamb fleece covered straps will not fit. These barely fit.
    6AE19647-5C6B-41F8-9ED4-B447C5E8D6F6.jpg

    Those are very similar to the ones we've used in the past. Nowadays, and ever since I got my hitch made, we've tended to not trailer near as much with the Runes. We still mostly trailer the Yamahas wherever, and use this same procedure to secure them on the trailer. Shala adds a Velcro type seatbelt shoulder add-on cushion to where these straps attach to the ratchet strap to be sure the metal strap end never can contact any paint on the bike as we install/uninstall the ratchet tie down straps.

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    Administrator RedValk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUY LOW View Post
    The gap between the fork and the brake fittings is tight! Picked up a set of these as my swanky lamb fleece covered straps will not fit. These barely fit.
    6AE19647-5C6B-41F8-9ED4-B447C5E8D6F6.jpg
    Yep, I use black soft ties. They pretty much look like those in your picture.....just black instead of red.

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    Jersey Boy
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    Quote Originally Posted by MO Rune Rider View Post
    Those are very similar to the ones we've used in the past. Nowadays, and ever since I got my hitch made, we've tended to not trailer near as much with the Runes. We still mostly trailer the Yamahas wherever, and use this same procedure to secure them on the trailer. Shala adds a Velcro type seatbelt shoulder add-on cushion to where these straps attach to the ratchet strap to be sure the metal strap end never can contact any paint on the bike as we install/uninstall the ratchet tie down straps.

    Yep, be careful with those brake lines. I had my Rune picked up and brought to the dealership via trailer when I first got my Rune for the rear wheel chrome flaking issue, it was only 2.5 mos. old. They returned it the via trailer 4 days later. This was in December, when I started riding again in April I noticed something wet on the right side of the gas tank a short way from home. I realized it was brake fluid and rushed home and washed it down with soap and water. Luckily I noticed very quickly after I left and there was no paint damage.
    I contacted the dealership and they sent someone down to inspect it. They owned up to their mistake and fixed it.
    Rich
    Last edited by RuneSki; 1 Week Ago at 06:03 PM.

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