Obviously maintenance.....and those of us who have had our bikes laying down even softly, have a dent on the surface of the engine guard where it struck the ground (underside on the point) on the passenger side..uh...er ...uh...the right side ....also some scratches and a small dent or 2 on the underside of the chrome exhuast pipe cover I guess the coolant leaks that some have discussed on this board would be a concern for me also... Don't let the loose linkage on the trailing link scare you...as it did a lot of us... it's supposed to be like that. Wear and cupping on the tires... 7500 miles for most of us on the front... plan to change it every 7500.... rear ranges from 8000 for some to I think I'll get at least 15000 from mine.... I must be a wussy driver... Tires includign the change are expensive on this bike...can cost from $500 to $700 to change a set. So if you buy a 4000 mile bike you probably will need a new front within 4000 miles...maybe a negotiating term.
But all in all...this bike really is BUILT you WILL love it.... join us... :beer3:
Just make sure you get the warranty transferred. Ignore the minor dings and scratches, and drive the hell out of her!
The herky-jerkyness of the throttle will smooth out around 15,000 miles.
Drain the rear end and put Amsoil synthetic 80w (plus some Dow Corning Molykote Gearguard M if you can find it). Check the drain plug. Should be only about a pencil eraser worth of metallic magnetic goo at 12,000 miles or so, half an eraser worth at the first 6,000 miles.
LOOK ON THE BOTTOM OF RADIATOR WHERE THE HOSES COME OUT. IT IS A WEAK SPOT IN THE PLASTIC DESIGN AND IT CRACKS IF ANY PRESSURE IS PUT ON IT. WHEN YOU TEST DRIVE MAKE SURE THE TIRES HAVE THE CORRET AIR PRESSURE THERE IS A BIG DIFFERANCE IN HANDLING IF THE TIRE AIR PRESSURE IS NOT CORRECT.