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Hi Dr Dave, do you know how to turn thr DRLs off at the front I seem to recall something about using the dipped beam switch with something else?
I'm still working on the floats for the resrvoirs, my job has got in the way these past few days but hopefully I can do the work you guys have recommended amnd give you some feedback.
Thank you for bearing with me on my imaginitive theories.

Howard
I do not know how to accomplish that. I like MORE lights on front not less. :)
 

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Dr Dave, thanks for your reply. It seems my concerns about the front lights were unfounded in the end. The UK has some odd road laws about lighting, things like luminosity limitation, space between indicators, precise colour and so on. I imagine you have some similarities too.
It seems some of the draconian rules have been lessened here and the DRLs are classed as "markers" which is fine. The one difficulty with the Rune UK riders can have is the number plate on the rear fender. It mounts between the rear lights as I'm sure you know, in the UK it means to enable the ALL of rear lights to be fully visible ( a legal requirement ) the owner / rider must sport an illegally sized number plate. Unless the plate is mounted at a ridiculously high position, that's the way it is - the wonders of beurocracy !

All the best.
Howard
 

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...
The one difficulty with the Rune UK riders can have is the number plate on the rear fender. It mounts between the rear lights as I'm sure you know, in the UK it means to enable the ALL of rear lights to be fully visible ( a legal requirement ) the owner / rider must sport an illegally sized number plate. Unless the plate is mounted at a ridiculously high position, that's the way it is - the wonders of beurocracy !

All the best.
Howard
A similar problem here in BC Canada. Unlike plates in the USA and most Canadian Provinces, our plates are bigger.
I am quite annoyed by the fact that the legal placement of the plate hides some of the brake lights and looks ugly.
And forget about getting a license plate frame...

skip
 

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Over the weekend I was able to bleed the high point of my Rune's brake system. It was easier than anticipated. Rolled the bars up, took out the speedo, and bled the line. The flex tubing wrench is a must have for this job. (Thanks 517!) Now my Rune is sitting in the shop with out the weight dangling from the brake pedal. I will test in 30 days to see if the problem is resolved.
 

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TOTAL SUCCESS!!!
I have had my Rune sitting for just over a month without the weight on the rear brake pedal. In the past it always sat with a weight hanging on the pedal. If there was no weight on the pedal I could jump on it for a quick ride and roll right thru the first stop sign madly pumping the brakes. ( spring 2004).
NOT ANYMORE! My bike sat for over a month, and the pedal was perfect when I checked it last night.
A BIG shout out to 517 for coming up with this protocol. It's easily done, takes away a naggingly stupid problem, and does a lot to improve rider safety.
The flex tubing wrench is an absolute must for this job.
 

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Hi there,
I just purchased a 2004 Rune with 1000 miles on it and it was shipped to me. The rear pedal went right to the bottom, zero brakes. I fixed it by bleeding the fitting at the front of the gas tank by the neck mounted to the frame with an allen screw. It appears to be the highest point. After I bled it at that point 3 times, (protected all finishes with foil tape and caught the fluid with a rag that was tightly tucked in place over the foil), the pedal still sunk when I tried it. Oddly, a few minutes later, the pedal was much better and I had brakes. I proceeded to the front left caliper bleed valve (per the instructions in the PDF) and bled it 3 times more. My pedal is now very hard and up high. I hope this helps because the info here from you all was so very helpful. I thought I would add what I learned. Thank you!
 

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Darn, I screwed up my English in my last message. My rear pedal is now actually high and hard as it should be. I just rode it and the brakes feel great. I hit the front brake hard and the rear wheel even skidded a bit with using the rear brake. Just a tiny bit. I will correct my previous message if I can. My spell checker replaced "now" with "not".
 

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Hi.
What I am about to say may not be all that helpful but perhaps give an insight into what may be a source of the problem. I purchased my Rune earlier this year. It was courier delivered to my home.
I found the back brake did not work at all !!
Having found there to be no brake fluid in the reservoir I removed the master cylinder off the from the bike and stripped it down. It was internally bone dry, not even damp, no evidence of brake fluid in there at all.
So at this point I'm thinking the back brake has never been operational. Hmmm.
It is a strange affair internally and to me this complexity will lend itself to blead back and possible air ingress. I didn't take a pisture of this assembly and now realise it would have been helpful. In appearance it is not unlike the the hydraulic flutings found in a hydraulic steering rack. Here is where I think the gremlin may be. Unlike a hydraulic sterering rack there is no preloaded fluid pressure created by a pump. A clue here is that a steering rack is designed to self purge and does so with because the hydraulic fluid is pressurised, I'm sure most of us have bled a steering rack so I won't get into this. It is this very aspect of the master cylinder design I believe may be the underlying problem; No fuid preload at rest. I have yet to reassess the brake and re-bleed the system to appraise the situation but the fluid level is, as filled by me. I believe the master cylinder is allowing a certain amount of leak back internally and since the seals are at their most effective when under pressure and since the system is pulled back by spring force a certain amount of negative pressure will theoretically be created internally. This theoretical internal vacuum may be enough to draw air past unstressed ( technically loose ) seals and into the master cylinder - just a thought and not impossible since a remedy written in this forum, having some pedal preload at rest supports the theory.
I will say though if my imaginative theory is correct then Honda need to issue a recall.
Regarding assembly, there appears to be an adjustable threaded rod linking the foot pedal to the master cylinder. Except it doesnt adjust, or it didnt appear to be designed to be adjusted with efforts to do so by myself leading me to conclude this. I have to say at this point I didnt have the workshop manual so did this job without reference.
In summary to the master cylinder all seals appeared in good nick but there was a small amount of dry and dusty residue of something inside the master cylinder. I cleaned everything, reassembled it and bled it. The system is the same as for a VTX ( I got one of these and have experience of doing this particular job ). It is, in my opinion very straight forward to bleed it. I got a firm brake pedal with sharp brake actuation and authority.
Roll on a month or so and it doesn't seem quite so firm, though I am bearing in mind I haven't ridden the bike on the road owing to needing a new front tyre yet.
I'm not particularly concerned about the brake pedal unless braking efficiency deteriorates then I will look for a permanent solution.

All the best
Howard
Hello everyone. I just joined here in hopes of someone shedding some light on the rear brake issue i am having. I purchased my 04 Rune last year with a known rear brake issue. Previous owner said it only needed bleeding which i did not believe. After trying to bleed it first i then replaced the rear master cylinder with no change in condition. I then replaced the rear caliper which seemed to have a small affect on the soft pedal. It was after this that i found out about the linked pressure control valve. I replaced this also and the brakes seem to work normally. After parking the bike for the winter i brought it out last month and after 1 ride the rear brake over heated and locked up while i was riding. I am currently waiting on local Honda dealer to contact Honda tech line and see if they can shed some light on this issue. I am curious if anyone else has had the lock up problem as well as the low pedal problem?
 

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Low /soft pedal yes.....quite a few. Lock up while riding? No one I know of. Know this isn't really much help, but that's the "score" on folks having those symptoms...........as best I know..........
 

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2004 NRX18DB4 w/Chrome Wheels
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Nice post Dan, too bad I can't read invisible text... else I would know what your post contained...
BTW, I just briefly checked on acquiring one of the floats in the front brake master cylinder...
That part isn't available anyplace I checked... I looked at all the places I have ordered parts before. This concerns me greatly for the future of the Rune.
-Rod
 
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Low /soft pedal yes.....quite a few. Lock up while riding? No one I know of. Know this isn't really much help, but that's the "score" on folks having those symptoms...........as best I know..........
Thanks for the post. Honda dealer is thinking it is a air in the system issue. He suggests elevating the rear caliper while i bleed it to make it the highest point in the system and forcing the air to go up. I,m looking into doing that now. I have an old HD brake rotor i can use to sandwich in between the pads just not sure how much i can actually raise the caliper due to length of the line. Ahhh life in the fast lane!!!!!!
 

Let's Geaux
2004 NRX18DB4 w/Chrome Wheels
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Makes one wonder which will be worth more in the future, the Rune---or oem parts folks have on the shelf? (y) :)(y)

View attachment 21450
How much for any of the stuff in the photo? Except the CBC Rune model, I already have one that color.
 
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