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Discussion Starter #1
I'd buy a black Rune with pullback bars and chrome wheels, but have one concern. Haven't heard of ONE wheel that ends up with no damage after replacing tires. The problem with chrome wheels is that ANY damage means a new wheel (or repair and rechroming at least). By the way, the damage occurs during removal. Don't want to spend 2-grand on an option that'll be a problem.
Especially easier to damage (I'm told) are single-sided wheels, like both my BMW's and the Rune's; is this true?
I'd appreciate your comments if my fears are unfounded or real. If it's going to be a problem, I rather save the bucks and buy the regular Spec 47 wheels. They look a little dull in black (IMHO, and from pictures. Never seen one), but that's okay.
As always, thanks for your input.
 

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You can get your wheels chromed for A LOT less $$$ that what Honda charges for their wheels. I think the price is around $600-$800 to get both wheels chromed. Some people have had this done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip Shawn.
If I don't hear a positive comment from somebody who has changed tires on chromed wheels without damage, I'm not even going to consider that option.
In that case, the color decision becomes harder. All 3 colors look good on regular wheels, but the black goes with any gear. Since I'd have to buy new 'cruiser' gear anyway, I can be flexible. That'd help to get an even better deal. I just need the pullback bars for my 5'10" frame, me thinks (better make a new post before making a mistake).
Thanks.
 

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Chrome Wheels

I have the Spec 47 wheels and frankly the rotors are so large you really can't appreciate the wheels except from the rear left side.

Now if you're going to chrome the calipers and polish the rotors then chrome is the way to go.

I've never owned chrome wheels so I don't have any data about how they handle tire changes, but I do know that my other bikes usually get some type of ding during tire changes, mostly insignificant but you still know its there.
 

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i honestly don't think that many folks have even changed a tire yet :roll:

But i'm even worried about them messing up my Spec 47 rim. Looking at my Valk rims, they've put plenty of mars/scratches on them from changing tires over its 7 year/66k mile life. The dealer and i are going to go round and round if they scratch these rims...even if they aint chrome.

And when i asked them about it months ago in casual conversation, the Service Manager already gave me the old 'copout' advice that "some scratching/marring is to be expected from the process". I told him....NO...it aint expected, nor will it be tolerated!
 

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Swamp Rat
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Chrome: To be or not to be.

When I ordered my Rune I requested Chrome Wheels, but the first Runes Honda shipped all had Spec-47 Rims.
I’ve never had a comment from anyone about my rims. Not once did anyone say why aren’t the rims chromed. My disappointment at not being able to get the chrome I wanted quickly disappeared.

With the Spec-47 cleaning is almost optional; one just can’t see the dirt. I frequently wipe down the Rune, never touch the wheels, and no one can tell the difference. Those stock rims just don’t show dirt.
 

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i agree with Chuck's post. Cleaning is optional...and easy ...with the Spec 47. And they cost much less. And you can't see much of the wheels anyway, except on the left rear.

That's why i talked myself out of getting the chrome wheels...and have never regretted it!

oh, WHO is that handsome devil in your post, Chuck????? :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
VegasShawn said:
Black is the only way to go 8)
Shawn, I agree; sticking out with black. Hey, what kind of seat do you have?
About the chrome wheels, that's why boards like this are so great. I'm not getting chrome wheels, period. First of all, a little nick means chrome peeling off. Second of all, you guys are absolutely right: can't see anything of the wheels except the left rear side. And I'm not going to chrome anything else, so chrome wheels are OUT.
Thanks again for all your great help.
The only thing I might do to the bike are the side covers, but would have to be the ones that just press on, because I want to be able to access the oil dipstick without tools. And probably looks better. Will probably post about side covers, so there's a history on this board.
Good day guys.
 

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That's a Corbin seat. Black leather with "Charcoal Carbon Fiber" on the sides. I believe it's that last one they made without the hole for a backrest. They shipped my seat a day after I ordered it and that was just about the same day they announced they were adding the backrest hole. :x

That's the first time I got a seat from Corbin that was actually what I asked for.
 

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Tire Change

Hi Folks Just wanted to shed some light on the subject, I Just had my Front tire replaced at 8850 mi. the dealer that I Purchased my Rune from did the work and after Talking to the service mngr. they were well aware of the possibility of scratches to the rim ( they Already had to replace a rear rim at their expense.) Not Cheap !! :oops: They Understood My Concerns and took Great Care Of My Bike . Took 1 & 1/2 hrs to remove the front wheel, 10 min. to change tire, and another 1 1/2 hrs to re assemble. Because this was the first front they had replaced alot of time was spent readin the repair manual. New Front Tire $300.00 , was charged for hour and half labor and cost of tire.. P.S. seems they learned their lesson on that rear oops!, they werent reading the repair manual and did not remove rear fender first , wheel scratched by rear brake caliper tryin to get it out of fender .. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Shawn, thanks for the info on the seat. Looks great, and yes, I'd hate the hole in the back myself too. Could you describe the changes in riding posture with the corbin? Higher/lower than stock? More forward/rearward than stock?

Wizzard, thanks for your comments. So do I read your wheels WEREN'T damaged from the actual tire replacement? That'd be good news. Now we have to be worried about removal from the bike, huh? Might be a good idea to wrap the wheel with masking tape, just to make sure. By the way, I always remove the brake caliper on my BMW, even though you could wiggle it out with it in place (risking scratches, of course). Sounds like removing the front one is a chore though, but 1-1/2 hours sounds ridiculously high, especially for a dealer with all the 'right' tools. I much prefer to remove wheels myself and transport them in my car.

Wonder if anybody here has removed wheels himself; would be nice to know. Keep the comments coming gentlemen. Good day.
 

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****seems they learned their lesson on that rear oops!, they werent reading the repair manual and did not remove rear fender first , wheel scratched by rear brake caliper tryin to get it out of fender .. :([/****


You really have to remove the rear fender to remove the wheel? I had guessed it was like the wing, once high enough on the jack it would drop and slide out? Just doesnt seem right that the bike has to be torn down that far for tire removal. So this means the seat is removed etc and a strong chance for scratching/damaging the fender correct?
 

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removing fenders to pull rear wheel.

So does anyone know for sure if the rear fender must be removed for wheel removal? Is it the only way to remove the rear wheel? The thought of damaging those fenders once I buy one of these rides concerns me.
 

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It seems that you need to remove the fender. This is right out of the service manual


REAR WHEEL
REMOVAL
Remove the following:
– left muffler cover (page 3-7)
– rear fender (page 3-6)
Remove the five bolts and wheel cover.
Loosen the five wheel nuts while applying the rear
brake with the wheel is on the ground.
Support the motorcycle securely using a hoist or
equivalent and raise the rear wheel off the ground
(page 4-2).
Remove the wheel nuts and the rear wheel.
 

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LOV2KRZ.....that is nuts. Chit I can just see myself messing up a fender. Its the perfect second bike to my gl1800 and I really want to buy a Rune but I need to do some serious thinking if this bike is that high maintenance. It sure seems extreme to have to remove that wheel. By site it looks like you can just drop the wheel like the GL1800 and pull it straight out. (using a lift)
 

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I Agree

I totally agree with you. It looks like any other single sided swing arm shaft drive. All you have to do is pull the axle bolt, slide the wheel enough to disengage the drive shaft splines and drop the wheel. I haven't tried it yet but tire change time is coming up. :lol:
 

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LOV2KRZ Keep me posted on this. I dont mind maintenance but this sure seems extreme. I wonder if its up all the way on a lift it wont come off like the wing. The wing has the rear panel to be removed for wheel removal and I dont anyone that does it that way. I have hopes the rune wont be any different.
 

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all i can tell you is, if they remove my fender...and scratch it....they will be replacing it. My local dealer knows that too. They used to hinge up the rear fender to change the rear tire on my Valk. they scratched it several times...and replaced it. then they found alternative ways to change the tire....ways not shown in the service manual.

I won't be surprised if they find a 'better' alternative way to change rear tires on the Rune, too.
 

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Tim/REDVALK.... With the thought of having to replace a fender if they scratch it I woudnt be surprised to see places refusing to do the work. And those that do charging so much no one would bring it in. This sounds silly but its a big issue for me. I sure dont want to risk scratching the fenders and dont want to pay 3 or 4 hundred in labor to have it done either.
 
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