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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gents,
I just ordered 2 gallons of Evans Coolant for my Rune. It is permanent. You can modify the radiator cap to work at ambient air pressure, so you wont ever have a hose blow out.
And, since you remove ALL the water, you wont have corrosion problems, or cavitation problems from steam.

http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm


update: June08- I ordered a gallon of the Evans Prep fluid (a bit cheaper) to use as the first fill/water scavenger step.
Now I keep a case of 4 gallons handy for any emergency refills.....It helped having spare coolant available when my Passat temp gauge popped out of the radiator because the tech forgot the circlip..... :roll:

Ken (29,000 miles today!)
 

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Stuff sounds good. What quantity did you order?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I ordered 2 gallons. When I flushed my system 3 weeks ago I ended up going thru 1.5 gallons.

What you are supposed to do is
drain the old stuff, --be sure to put it in your dog's dish if you want it to die from oxalic acid poisioning of its kidneys :shock: or, dispose of properly.
flush with distilled water (Im going to use the water from my room dehumidifier instead of paying a buck a jug) drain and flush the overflow bottle too
fill completely with that pet friendly propylene gycol stuff called: Sierra
run the engine till warm. The Sierra will suck out the residual water in the cooling jacket, radiator, pump, etc. put it in your overflow too to get rid of the water in it.
drain the radiator
fill with the Evans coolant.
modify the radiator cap for low pressure, or, better, get a 5-7psi cap so you know the system is air tight and wont tend to absorb water (so I am told).

I found out they have a racing version, which has a slightly lower viscosity. But you have to replace it every 2 years. I dont think i need the fraction of a HP by putting less load on my water pump.

this stuff is completely silicate free.

Ken (29,025 miles !! )
 

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Thanks Ken. This will get on my "to Do" list.
 

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I am just a little confused though...the stock radiator cap has a pressure rating of 16-20 PSI. The replacemet cap (offered by evans) is 7 PSI. How does this keep water out? It just seems reversed to me. The low pressure cap would let water in, where the high pressure cap wouldn't . Obviously this is not the case, but why?
 

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Swamp Rat
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What is this stuff? "propylene gycol stuff called, Sierra"

If I had known I'd have to do some work, I would have let the Beast over- heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sierra is antifreeze. It is made of similar stuff as the Evans coolant, but much cheaper, and is designed to be mixed with water, which we dont do in this procedure. Rather, we use it as a water scavenger.

Radiator cap: well, the coolant will expand when hot, and flow into the overflow bottle. then when it cools, it will go back into the radiator. The purpose of a radiator cap that holds pressure is to make it harder for the water to boil. When water boils it turns to steam. Steam sucks because it is a thermal insulator. Water will boil at 212 F and that is way too low for engines. Our Runes are pushing the envelope for cooling, and that is why they need pressurized caps. The water wont come out because the system is water tight, duh! ;) When the pressure hits the rating of the radiator cap, the coolant will flow into the overflow bottle. If you overheat, steam forces so much coolant into the bottle that it overflows, and perhaps a hose pops.

Enter the Evans coolant, propylene glycol. It boils at 300-something degrees at normal atmospheric pressure. It does not need to be pressurized to keep from boiling. Thus, you can use a low pressure cap. Coolant will flow up and down in/out of the overflow bottle in accordance with the volumetric displacement from its heat changes.

Ken (29,060 miles !!)
 

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Ken, did you modify your stock rad cap or put a different cap on? If you modified tell us what you did or if you used a different cap tell us what you used. Is the Sierra available at retail stores?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will try to locate and buy a low pressure cap, and keep the original cap in my ever growing box of old Rune parts.

You can buy Sierra coolant at most auto parts stores.

Ken (29,100 miles)
 

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thanks Ken, one more ? I was looking at the service manual, cooling system section, from the pic it's hard to tell where the coolant drain plug is located on the engine block, please advise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There are actually TWO drain plugs. One is on the left side of the radiator, after you remove the shrouds. It is a phillips screw thang.

The other one is underneath the bike (yes, a lift is a great thing to have!!) just above and behind the oil filter. I think it was an 8mm hex screw.

When I do this I will be sure to have fresh batteries in my digicam so you guys can follow my lead.

Ken (29,100 miles)
 

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Thanks Ken, I ordered my Evans this mornin, so I'll be lookin for your pics. I really like the dannyhyde tranny covers I have that are painted to match the bike, but they have to be restricting some of the airflow around the rear of the block and the tranny, so I looking for any little edge I can get for the cooling system. Great Idea Ken! :yes:
 

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FYI,
Evans also sells 7 lb radiator caps..$7 dollars and change.
 

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Last night I was telling a buddy that I was going to put evans in the Rune and he said " Are you sure that won't void the warranty?" Good question.
 

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I called Evans to inquire about the 7lb cap and ended up talking to Dave who is the head of their tech dept, Here's what he had to say about using this stuff in our Runes.
They have experience with 03-04 Goldwings, which of course is the same engine block as the Rune. This engine when you drain it retains approx.
15% of the coolant in the water jacket, lots of little nooks and crannys in the jacket. So here's what they recommend for our engines:
- drain and flush with distilled water.
- fill with one gallon of Evans Prep fluid(hesaid Sierra is not totally waterless!), run the engine til close to normal operating temp. Drain- (The prep fluid is reusable.)
- Fill with Evans coolant, purge air during filling procedure of course, then ride the bike for a day.
- Drain coolant, refill with new coolant, this get's the flat six it's closest to waterfree that it can be.

Radiator cap- He said because the cap is on the pressure side of the cooling system that they recommend keeping the stock cap, in the past he said they had to much overflow when the cap pressure was reduced below 13psi on the Goldwings.

REMEMBER: These are the techs words, not mine, take it for what it's worth, if you want more info or have questions about what he told me give them a call. Myself, I'll be following their recommendations.

FYI- Rune cooling system capacities - 4.5 qts Rad/Engine and .5qt in the overflow reservoir.
 

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Swamp Rat
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I read this as needing 2.375 gallons of the Evens Coolant (X’s) two, if we are to purge the system and refill.
This works out to be $170.00 plus what ever the Prep Fluid runs.
Too, without a temperature gauge, at idle, how long will it take to reach normal operating temperature?
Maybe when the fan cuts in.

I’m going to order another three gallons of the Coolant and a gallon of the Prep Fluid.

Every time I read this board it costs me more money. Ken cost me $68.00 and now HogSlayer
upped my anti to somewhere around $200.00.
As I go through this procedure I will be invoking both of your names, peppered with some salty language.
 

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Some time ago I got all excited about this Evans product and spent a bunch of time trying to make it work in my Boss Hoss. The problem was the temp was going to be higher and that is not what I wanted. My total intrest was personal comfort with the heat coming off the Radator and the problem was, the Evans would not boil but ran HOTTER. I called the power to be there and he said it was not what I wanted..

Adrian
 
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