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My dealer told me that Honda puts a special break in oil in the Rune. My Rune was built in March of 2004 and only has 350 miles. I want to change the oil but, the dealer says I should wait at least 2,000 miles.

Does anyone know where I can purchase the break in oil?

Thank you,

Ralph
8)
 

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Try the service manual

Ralph,

Here in Denmark we use a phrase : " If everything else misses, try the owners manual !" The phrase is used broadly, but especially with regard to wrong establishment of power and connection between electronic items, womens such activities (a buzzer can be more difficult to conquer than Mount Everest) and with regards to software before plug and play age and selfinstalling sofware.

Is the service manual silent on this issue ?
 

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If I read the Owner's Manual correctly it says the initial oil change is 600 miles. I just changed mine at 900 miles (got a little carried away one day and stayed out a little long.) I don't believe what Honda said about the special oil. ..... Mike
 

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i still say no special oil from factory. I've never seen that printed...nor heard that said. No Honda i know of comes with 'special break in oil'. Period.

Meanwhile, the service manual says first oil change is 4000 miles...I REPEAT ...4000 miles. And that's exactly when i changed mine first. Others did it earlier. No harm there of course. But i say, if Honda says 4000....then this bike was built to go that before the first service..and then some. Period.

oh yea, most OTHER bikes DO say first service at 600. that's the norm. But this bike aint the 'norm'. One other Honda that i know of has the same first service interval of 4000. that's the VTX. i'll do my SECOND oil change at 12k...and change over to synthetic (Honda synthetic)...at that time. Same drill i did with my Valk. Almost 73k on it...and no problems ever....
 

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RedValk is right. There is no special breakin oil. But, unlike Tim, I first changed my oil at 500 miles, and reardrive at 1000 miles, both with Amsoil synthetic. I said previously that why would I want to use an oil that "breaks in" the engine components by allowing wear to happen at a fast rate? I will be happy to let the synthetic prevent the initial engine tolerances to do what they will at a slower rate. Heck, my Rune doesnt use oil, and that includes the trip from SC to CO, up Pikes Peak, and back, at "very fast" speeds.

Let us all hope that we all get to 100,000 miles with no "inside the case" problems. And, whoever gets to 200,000 miles with no work done in the case "wins."

Ken (28,350 miles)
 

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that's interesting. my owners manual says initial oil change....and ALL initiial service...is at 4000. It made me raise my eyebrows when i first saw it. but then i went to my dealer, and they confirmed it...and told me about the VTX having its first service at 4000 also.

Wonder why our Owners manuals would be different? Do you have one of those much anticipated "05" models? I even checked my wifes Owners manual...just to see if it was different (since we got the bikes almost a year apart)...but no difference for her Rune. Says 4k first service also.

Hmmm......
 

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Back to the original question: that the Rune was made in March 2004 and only has 350 miles.... I would change the oil because it has sat in the crankcase for 1 year --- remember that requirement?? mileage or hangtime.

As for the comment from the dealer that it was breakin oil: i think that was a glib comment from someone who likes to BS! Another topic that would get lots of BS and little engineering: the size of batteries and how that a big battery with a lot of ampacity can "burn up a vehicles charging system" I dont want that mechanic touching my Rune that made the comment about the oil. He would be the same one who is too proud to actually check the manual if there was a problem. That is what happened to my rear wheel.
ken (28,350 miles)
 

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break oil

sorry sirs,

Ken if you reload you know that if you use tungstene reloaders you do not need special oil, if you use only steel reloaders you need to use a special oil or the cartriges do not slide into the reloader.
the same happen into new engines, a special additif is mixed to the oil.
years back you should use a new engine at reduced speed for many miles. now there is no particular indication. for two reasons
the engine inside tube(cilinder) is worked with good machines and the tollerances are minimum more the use of this additif avoid an increase of temperature if you use the new engine under pressure
so please do not change oil before manual instructions.
ciao
Hannibal (seventeen j built a bike only with spare parts hahhahaha)
 

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first oil ever ...

Well, well, I am going to receive a new Rune without a drop of oil due to the transportation....my question :

What oil should I use ? with or without special aditive(s) and fro how long ?
Did any of you ever called Rune technical support line to clean up uncertainties ? I kind of believe I will, but wondering if they will answer me due to the fact that I am not recorded as Rune owner....
Suggestions???
 

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Oil Change Interval

Well I have my Owner's Manual in front of me and it does call for the engine oil and filter to be replaced at 600 miles. The legend says ".06 x 1,000 mi". The next change is at 8K, then 16K, then 24K. The maintenance schedule is on page #73. The manual has Honda Rune on the Cover, NRX 1800 Valkyrie Rune. The first page (not a numbered page) of the manual reads "Honda Motor Co., Ltd 2003. The fifth non-numbered page indicates a country code of "U/Australia." (haven't a clue on this one). I can copy the maintenance schedule if you would like to see it if someone can tell me how to upload it to the forum or the web.

My mechanic told me they would put fish oil in the engine oil for the break in period but they no longer use any special additives. Don't know about that either I am a commercial building contractor and not an auto or motorcycle mechanic.
 

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Upload of owners manual to the Baord

Mike,

You can upload to the photopost Board - member galleries or the general photo post Rune board.

If you're not a member on photo post for the moment, you have to register first to upload.

Then (after udload to Photo Post) you add a post in this thread with the link using the "url" button while writing the post, or you place the image directly on the Board in the post using the "img"-button while writing the post.

You can't place a link to your computer on this Board, and you can't upload image files directly from your computer, but you can place image files somewhere else on the Net and then refer to that place as link using "url" og "img" button.

I'm an IT mongolian, and I've figured it out, so it must be easy !
 

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CORRECTION!!

John on the Tech Board asked me if I meant 0.6 X 1000mi instead of ".06" John was correct. It does read "0.6X1000mi." Still 600 mile interval .... Mike
 

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http://www.msnusers.com/RuneServiceManual

I have put the web address in the subject line that links to the photo of the maintenance schedule in my Owner's manual. Let me know what you think. .... (be kind) .... Mike
 

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Now while I'll agree on an early change, I could note find anything other than 4K for schedualed changes in either the owners manual or the service manual.
However having thirty years of hydraulic systems experence I can tell you that while the base oil may not break down in 4K miles it buy no means indicates the oil is still servicable.
Take note our common motor oil starts with a base oil ( petrolum or synthetic, which does NOT have any lubrication quality past a french fry)
to this base additives are added to reduce wear. These additives vary but are extreamly fine less than 1 micron in size. What happens to these additives over the course of time is what makes the differance.
As your oil gets dirty, either airborne or from internal wear, the additives tend to cling to the dirt or metalic particle until the particle grows large enough to get traped in the filter. This action reduces the lubricity of your oil and is why old oil will trash your ride. Now we need to understand the quility of our oil filters to help us chart our oil expectancies. A standard automotive oil filter is rated at about 90 micron, your better filters are rated at about 45 microns, twice as good! the smaller the number the better. In my world of hydraulics 10 micron would trash my controls and possible cause a machine run away with mind blowing catostropic results.
When new oil is put into my hydraulic tanks it HAS to be pumped thru the filter system because, brand new from the factory, it is still to dirty for my systems. We filter to 3 to 5 microns at the valve.
Have you seen the adds about cleaner base oil? I can't remember the brand, but that's what there getting at, starting cleaner.
Now lets get back to our beloved Runes. Changing the oil more frequntly will only assure us that we have clean, properly functioning oil to make all those little parts stay smooth and shiny. You will note that the manual warns aginst ant oil with graphite or molybdenum, because it would make our clutch slip. As for castor based oil, if I could find Franciscan Racing Oli I would fill'er up, light'er up and close the door and get hi, I love the smell, all the flattrackers around here used that in the OLD days.
So change that oil, change that filter and remember storage time does equate to miles as moisture helps create acid in stored oil.

Jack
 

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Jack - Well put explanation !

Jack,

- Really good and informative explanation about the function etc. of oil for those of us without a clue about that issue ! 8)

If you get tired of Your recent occupation You should become a teacher ! :lol:
 

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An admission of....... adding MOLY to my oil

Dear Father Confessor,

at my 10,000 mile oil change (Amsoil, as always), I started adding 2oz of "Dow Corning Molykote Gearguard M" to the oil. Yes, this is a moly additive. It is kick butt, with particle size "sub micron" so it passes thru the filter, even the Amsoil super filter.

I will let you all know if and when my clutch starts slipping.

In the meanwhile, 14,000 miles later... when i checked my cam lobes at 24,000 miles while I changed my spark plugs I noticed that the ORIGINAL MILL marks on the wearing parts of the cam lobes were still there---not worn away.

If my clutch starts slipping, all i have to do is stop adding the moly, and i am sure there will be no problem. Oh, did I mention that at 28,000 miles my front and rear brake pads are almost new??? I DOWNSHIFT extensively. If the clutch was slipping I would know it. Heck, a clutch is not a warranty item anyway :roll:

Ken (28,575 miles and hummin'!)
 

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45 micron filter or neodymiumboron super magnet ?

jxrune

I am still waiting for my Rune, and I will have to start it up after the transport (dry) to France.
Do you know what are the stock filter "size" stock for the Rune (90 microns ?) , is it possible to buy plug compatible 45 ? ( where at ?). What about using neodymiumboron super magnet in addition to a honda stock filter ? best than using a "45" filter ?
I would love to hear your advise, I did study many,many years ago some hydraulic, but I am afraid it's now too far away to know what to choose from...
regards
 
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