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Here are two pictures of my home made lift plate. Made from 3/4 plywood 9" x 24 1/2". There is a 5 1/2" piece of 2 x4 one one end with plywood cut to match on one end that are fastened into placed. 2 pieces of rubber 2" on the other end 6" long with a 2" gap in the center. The first 2 pieces of rubber are contact cemented on but we're 1/8" to short, so I cut a piece of auto heater hose to raise it another 1/8" for a total of 1/2" tall. I initially contact cemented the heater hose on but because it was a hose to start with, it would not lay flat with the glue so I added staples. It is positioned on the bike with the 5 1/2", 2x4 centered on the rear shock brackets, flush against the upright shock assembly. The rubber strips straddle the keel shaped engine. I put a screw to mark each side where the hole for the pin would go (as on the other lift plates that were made of metal). I cut a piece of all thread for a pin that I place a 1/2" nut underneath to rest on the plywood for extra support. I bought an OTC 1500 Stinger motorcycle lift from Amazon that I am very happy with, it had the lowest starting lift height that I found, price was reasonable at $187.
When lifting the bike I have the jack positioned on the right side with the plywood plate as noted earlier held in place with one hand and I pull the jack so the rear lift arm of the jack just over laps the rear piece of the 2x4 by a 1/2" or so. I initially have the kick stand on a piece of 2x4 to level the bike somewhat. I then insert the all thread pin and position the two 1/2" nuts between the pin and plywood. I lift the jack while holding on to the right handle bar. I have changed both the front and rear tire so far and is quite stable. Side note I mounted a Dunlop Mutant tire on the rear (OEM size) and very pleased with it. I hope this is helpful to someone, photos below. Will give more info if needed.
 

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