Rune Rider Forums banner

How to tie down a Rune in a trailer?

8826 Views 83 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  check
I suspect this was covered on the old board but can anyone help me with the way to strap down a Rune in a trailer without damage?
Thanks, James.
1 - 20 of 84 Posts
oh've hit one of my areas of REAL expertise :lol: They call me Trailer Queen....have trailer, will travel. I trailer one of my two Runes about once every other somewhere....some rally.

Here is the scoop:

When they come from the factory, they are tied down to the case savers...and to a point under the seat. For mine, i had to attach higher than the case savers to get some leverage, so i attach at two points. One, i use soft ties to attach to the fork area right around the turn signal. This gives a really solid tie point. In addtion, for added stability, i use a "Canyon Dancer" ...which goes on the bars and provides another point of attachment. However, i do NOT crank down much on this attachment to the bars...and i don't recommend putting much pressure on a handle bar. you could actually bend your bar if you did!

For the rear, i had to see a Rune in the crate from the factory to figure this out. Remove the seat, then there are two black plates that attach to the frame with a single phillips screw. Remove the screw, remove the black plates on each side, and carefully 'snake' a soft tie under the exposed frame. You will probably need needle nose pliers to get the soft tie out form inside the frame. temporarily store the black plates for transport. To attach the STOCK seat, there is a place in the seat frame where the factory deliberately built a split in the frame of the seat for the strap to fit thru for trailering. If you have a Corbin seat, you don't have to 'worry' about this.

let me know if this all makes sense. I can elaborate if need be. In addition, i have soft material wrapped around my straps on the make sure they don't rub against the side of the bike and scuff it any. I should take some photos of all this some day. My next "Trailer Queen" adventure will probably be the Hoot, late June. The next one after that, InZane Valk/Rune rally late July.

Hope this helps....let me know if you need more details.
See less See more
Great Post!

Tim, Great Post! I'm saving a copy of that, Thanks man!
NO, NO, NO, You have that all WRONG. you don't know how to tie down a Rune :roll: . I had some warranty work done by my dealer ( Cycle World of Cherry Hill) back in December. When they picked the bike up I helped the guy tie and secure it like you just mentioned. BUT when THEY brought it back THEY tied the straps around the right front forks AND both BRAKE lines :shock: (one front line and one rear) he untied the bike himself before I got outside and noticed how it was strapped down. I did not ride the bike until the ice thawed in april. I then noticed a small amount of brake fluid splashing onto my gas tank and surrounding areas ( I had all the painted parts well waxed so it did not damage them ). I was baffled and could not figure out why and where it was coming from 'till I had my Rune parked next to Gene's Rune. I then compared the brake line routing and how they were curved and realized the brake lines were bent and how they got that way.
I called the dealer and described what I had discovered. The service mgr. asked me why I waited so long( like I was riding all winter with the snow and ice we had this year ) to contact him and denied his QUALIFIED technicians would do such a thing.
Rather than fight a losing battle with him Gene and I went to his dealer and told him the bike must have came from the factory like that. No questions asked, he ordered new brake lines and fixed it under warranty
Take care and good luck
Rich K ( Rune Ski )
See less See more
ahhh...but you see Rich, any VETERAN Trailer Queen like me knows dang well not to pull that ROOKIE mistake. I never tie around brake lines, wires, etc. Mine is done with soft ties....all on solid metal. My way is perfect. I'll have to take pics and show you some time.

Remember...i have been trailering my Valk....and my Road Star ....and now my Runes EVERYWHERE. Obviously, the guys that trailered yours didn't pay attention to detail. Shame on them.

Trust bike comes out of trailering as IMMACULATE and PERFECT as it did going in. Hey, you remember how emaculate my red and white Valk was at the Home Coming last year? That bike has been trailered probably no less than about 50-60 times!!!!!!!!!! Already both my Runes have been trailered several times.

I looked at my bike, and i can tell EXACTLY where those guys must have strapped yours. Shame, shame on them. i do mine by the turn signal....and not against the brake lines. I'll take some pics from different angles and post them.

Trailer Queen
See less See more
I know where your comin' from. Like I said, I did all the strapping down when he picked up my bike. But another person, er um, I mean DUMMY brought it back.
Take care
Rich K ( Rune Ski )
RedValk is Right

But then I guess we should have expected that :lol:
I just moved my Rune about 180 miles over some pretty ordinary roads in the back of what you guys would call a SUV. Luckily my dealer had retained the base frame from shipping and I put this into the cargo area then tied the bike in the same as Honda did for shipping - through the seat and through the engine savers. I used the same tie down ratchets as the factory used with no additional padding (unlike Redvalk) but I did not get any marks.

I will measure the frame soon and post the offsets so anyone can replicate the mounting points. About the only modification I would use next time is to fabricate a frame that goes over the seat frame points and then tie that down. Shall post pictures when I get it done. This mount would then stop the straps ever having contact with the chrome directly below the seat.
tie down

You may have already solved your request. I just acquired a Rune and have transported it in my toy hauler.

The best and easy way to tie down any cycle is to have a Condor wheel chock. Or any other similar brand. The chock holds the bike up after you drive into it. It makes it a one man operation. Use soft straps on each side of the engine guards and draw them down ninety degrees to the bike. Then using another set of soft straps simply attach to the wheel spoke that is at the bottom on the wheel. Attach these at about 45 degrees to the front of the bike to pull it into the chock harder. Have the bike in gear. You're set to go

I have T-tracks to connect to because they provide more options for locating a mounting point. But D rings or eye bolt set in the right location are ok too.

The bike is very secure. I have trailered to Sturgis and Datona bike Week
for over 4k miles without the bike moving at all.

This might be another option for you to consider. Ride carefull.
See less See more
I noticed in the last post, you stated that the motorcycle's put into gear for the transport. Anybody want to chime in on this? Can that ever put undue stress on the transmission during the move? Just a thought. :eek:4:

I don't think it really matters, because there appears to be enough play in the gears so a little rocking shouldn't hurt. I keep mine in neutral because I see no benefit in keeping the bike in gear. The important thing is how the tie downs are attached to the bike and how they are attached to the trailer. The tie-downs are what keep the bike from moving and should be secured in such a fashion the keeps the bike from moving forward or backward and side to side. A sturdy wheel choc is a good idea as well. Tip or Al will have the real answer as to how much play the gears can stand before damage occurs. There are other threads on how to tie a bike down.
i ALWAYS keep mine in gear. don't want them to have ANY chance of rolling/moving.

and on non fuel injected my Valk.....ALWAYS shut the gas off. if you don't, fuel comes down through the carbs...into the engine....and you get raw gas in your oil.

but of course, on the Rune, there is no fuel valve....duh.

one more thing. I ALWAYS park any bike of mine in gear also. i NEVER leave one in neutral...other than MAYBE in my garage. Why you ask? i have seen MANY times someone bumped a bike that was parked in rolled.....kick stand retracted.....boom. i'm not saying if someone bumps your bike HARD ENOUGH...that even in gear it might not be knocked off the stand.....but....i'm saying it would be MUCH harder to do so if the bike is in gear.

whether in the parking lot....or on a trailer....and MUCH MORE SO on a trailer, all my bikes get parked in gear.....or they don't get parked at all :wink: :roll: 8) :lol:
You raise a good point Tim...If Tom and Al are OK with leaving the bike in gear, then I will be changing my ways. :D
Leaving a bike in gear while transporting it shouldn't damage anything. Don't forget the wheels aren't really locked when the bike is in gear; they are just coupled to the engine. Any force that would damage gears would likely cause the engine crank to rotate a bit, absorbing any shock against the compression of a closed cylinder.

Slight rocking against the gear lash shouldn't hurt anything either. That has to be way softer on the gears than engine brake to full throttle, which I'm sure we Rune riders do only occasionally. :wink:
in gear

I've always left my bikes in gear when parked. Just a little precautionary measure with no side effects.

But in the trailer it is more necessary because I can't always get a level spot.
When I go to undo the straps, I may be alone and I don't want that sucker to start rolling on its own.

Ride safe.
Yep!! Bike in gear. Dubble check the straps on the left side befor pulling on the the right. Stand up and pull the bike to you to make sure the left side is good. If you are pulling the staps nealed nexed to the bike and it falls.... That is a smashed Rune rider... thats a bad thing!!!
Ok, with all the trailer talk, what about RAMPS?

I'm looking at buying a new bike, but the UNLOADING has me really nervous. If I have to drive a considerable distance to buy my Rune during the winter, it will most likely be in a 5x12 enclosed U-Haul, or a U-Haul truck.

The offloading ramp at my house has me wondering. How long does the ramp need to be so the bike doesn't 'bottom out' in the middle, or contact the rear fender? I know that depends on how high the trailer or truck gate is too, but just looking for some suggestions to avoid some serious headaches down the road.

And if anyone has some pics of tie-down methods and tie-down anchor points on the bike, that would be great too. :)
I have done an enclosed U-haul-can't remember the size, however they make one that has a somewhat low ramp that pulls out from the bottem of the U-haul. Someone suggested loading the bike backward because it is easier to load than to unload. It is a little harder to tie down that way, but the off loading is safer. I prefer putting the bike in forward and getting help with the off loading, especially if the ramp is a little steep. Also you can back the trailer down into a ditch and change the angle of the ramp by using the back side of the ditch to support the ramp.; I think it all depends where you have the most help to steady the bike. U-haul also has an open trailer made specifically for bikes. The only problem with that one is the Rune doesn't fit properly and you have to tie off the back gate in a semi open position. If I were you, I would look for someone close to you that owns an enclosed trailer outfitted with tie-down anchors and a wheel choc. Maybe someone on this board has a trailer you can use. Any of the three options above work, but I hope someone from this board who owns a trailer lives near you can help.
See less See more
Well I'm also looking at possibly flying into the destination city, renting a u-haul and driving back.

Question, do U-haul trucks have tie down anchors inside the cargo area? Do the trailers?
Black Frog....After rereading your question, I realize I did not answer it very well. On the length of the ramp. You will know if the ramp angle is too steep when you load the bike. It will hang up between the wheels. To lower the pitch of the ramp, the ditch idea I mentioned above works, or you can put something under the back end of the ramp and use some wood or bricks to essentially lengthen the ramp. The tie down process has been explained several times in other threads, but the way I do it is to put the front tire in a wheel choc. Wheel chocs are nice to have, but not totally necessary; however if you have one, use it because it makes the whole process easier. I use the crash bars for the main tie down points. I use 4 tie down to the crash bars. Two to keep the bike from moving forward and two to keep the bike from moving backward. All tied off to the floor. I tie them off at about 45 degrees front and rear. The crash bar tie downs are secured tight enough the the front shocks are depressed a little. I then tie the handle bars the same way but not so tight and they get tied off to the walls. I then tie off the rear wheel to the floor. Be careful of the rear fender. Make sure the tie downs are lower than the fender. That's a lot of overkill, but tie-downs are cheaper than bikes. I recently learned from this board to leave the bike in gear. I also check the bike everytime I get gas. There it is-good luck with your new rune.
See less See more
U-haul trucks have anchors but not as many as a trailer designed for bike hauling; but enough to get the job done. What they don't have are wheel chocs, but as I said above, they are really nice to have, but one can tie off a bike without it. I haver seen some people tie the bike off on its kickstand, but I'm not a fan of that. I like them verticle. That said, I have yet to see one damaged by doing it that way.
1 - 20 of 84 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.