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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
rune vin # last 4 digits 1182. I'm in Seattle; valk club here is Vermin... i was co-director couple of years ago... have a black 2000 tourer with 76,000+ miles on it.... love the rune, ride it to work everyday but no trips longer than 2 days so far... will be riding the rune to paducah ky from seattle leaving 07/15/04.. i'm only 5'6" and have 'A' bars and just bought the kit to switch to 'B' bars... dealer wants 3 or 4 hours at $70 per hour so will do this work myself... my riding buddy, Ratdog, & I do all our own wrenching on our valks so should be able to do this but if anybody has written up a tech procedural bulletin on it, would appreciate the link, cause no use running into problems others have already solved... thanks in advance.

P.S. getting ready for this project gave me an excuse to call that nifty "for Rune owners only" 800 # that Honda sends to you with the tech manual CD. Wanted to know if honda has written up anything on the 'A' to 'B' swap. Got to say i was disappointed but not really surprised... very pleasant young man in torrence CA, works for an independent outfit tht runs service hotline for several different bike makes and models.. yes, he had heard of the rune but never seen one, i asked my question and he put me on hold to "consult with technical dept.", came back with this answer..." 'A' bars or 'B' bars is a choice buyer makes before delivery and Honda has no advice or reccomendation about switching after delivery" Gee, that was helpful!
 

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welcome to the board!

here is a step by step installation procedure....which was posted on the old board.

I knew there was a reason I kept this :wink:

Thanks to Rune102 for the write-up... Here it is:

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Fellow Runeys,
Just spent around 3 hours changing out my forward bars to rears. Not that hard to do. The hardest part was getting the left grip off. I found that if you work a small screwdriver under the rubber from both sides and all around it, spray around a gallon of WD-40 inside, it will come right off. Do this after you have removed the clutch reservoir and left switches. Unless you do the WD-40 route on the left grip, it ain't comin off. Don't force it, just work the screw driver around and spray. It will break it loose. Took the rune for a short 60 mile run. Its about 35 to 40 degrees here in the desert here in California. The rearset handle bars are great. Better seating positon, more comfortable and easier to handle. Anybody with forward bars should make the change to the rear. They are great. Still waiting on my corbin fairing.

All you need is the bars and brake hose. (plus 4 new copper crush washers for the brake line) www.ronayers.com

hose PN 45124-mec-831
B bars PN 53100-mec-830
I got the crush washers at the auto store but they are available from ron ayers.

$184.00 delivered. The local honda shop wanted 198.00 just for the bars.


No. The clips are kind of a pain. Once you see whats going on, it goes pretty easy. The switch assemblies and the master cylinders are kind tricky.
Here you go:
1. Take center 4 allen heads out of speedo cluster.
2. Carefully raise speedo cluster and unplug connector. (rubber inside cover may in way, it has to come out anyway)
3. Remove rubber cover.
4. Pop out (read rip out) clip holding the three wires and remove clip from wires.
5. Unplug the four connectors from the three gray wire bundles.
6. Remove three allen heads from cover just behind headlight. Remove cover. The front screw on the left side is a well nut.
7. Remove one allen head screw from triangle cover just in front of idiot lights. Remove cover by pulling down and wiggling. It has 2 slide mount pins on top.
8. Remove 2 bolts holding idiot lights in. Pull light assembly out of way. It was disconnected in step 5.
9. Remove wires from clip on plate. Clip can stay installed.
10. Remove 2 screws from plate that is behind idiot lights and remove plate with clip. The black Harness is under it.
11. Look at the opening in the center of the handlebars. You should have a grey harness and a black harness that are now free coming out of the hole in the handle bars. Pull the disconnected wires up from inside the tank.
12. Disconnect two wires for clutch switch. Remove 2 bolts securing clutch reservoir and remove. Lower half of bracket may stay (read is
stuck) in switch shell. Keep reservoir high or lockwire it somewhere just to keep it up so air won't go into the line.
13. Remove screw on each side holding chrome ring. Rings are now free to slide on bars.
14. Remove 2 screws holding left switch housing. Remove back half. The half that is left has wires connected to it.
15. Slowly begin to pull wire harness through handlebar while pushing the harness from the center hole. It should come out fairly easy. Make sure connector does not catch on hole opening.
16. Cover everything you can think of up with towels or what ever to keep brake fluid from contacting it.
17. Break the upper hose bolt loose. Not enough to leak , but enough so you can take it off on the bench.
18. Loosen clamp on front end holding brake line. No need to remove it.
19. Break lower hose bolt loose.
20. Remove bolt holding manifold.
21. Remove lower hose bolt at this point. Cover end with rag. It will leak but not to bad.
22. Disconnect the two wires for the brake switch. Remove two bolts securing brake reservoir and remove.
23. Remove 2 screws holding right switch assembly together. Back half will come off, The half that remains has wires on it.
24. Slowly begin to pull wire harness through handlebar while pushing the harness from the center hole. It should come out fairly easy. Make sure connector does not catch on hole opening.

Now all thats left is your left grip and your throttle. Throttle stays on for now.

25. For the left grip, remove allen head end cap from left grip.
26. Take the smallest screwdriver you have and work it in as far as you can between the rubber grip and the bar. Once in as far as you can , spray WD-40 in the opening. Repeat this all round the grip. On the inboard side and where you removed the end cap. It may take 30 minutes to get off. Dont force it. You will see it begin to break loose. DO NOT USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
27. Remove the right allen head cap on the throttle grip.
AT THIS POINT, HAVE A SECOND PERSON HELP SO YOU DONT DROP YOU HANDLEBARS INTO YOUR $1800 GAS TANK.
28. Pop out the 4 chrome caps that cover the bolts on the center off the bars. Remove the four bolts, the center cap, and the handlebars. When you pull the handlebars out, slide the throttle grip off.
29. To assemble, reverse everything I said. Thats the Honda way.

YOU NOW HAVE ABOUT 150 PARTS ON YOUR WORK BENCH!

Now you got it apart. I am not gonna write the rest. You made it this far. Put the rings (in correct direction) on bars first. Slide the throttle on bar as you mount them. Use safetywire to work the harnesses thru the bar. Install brake line WITH NEW COPPER WASHERS after you mount the reservoir. Bleed brakes. Top bleed ports are for the front hand lever. Before you put it all together, once all the stuff is plugged in, turn on power and make sure it all works.

THIS TEXT IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE USED BY STUPID PEOPLE. IF YOU ARE STUPID, AND YOU HURT YOURSELF WHILE DOING THIS, WELL, YOUR'E STUPID AND SHOULD NOT HAVE USED THESE INSTRUCTIONS. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.

Hope this helped. (Not the stupid ones).
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Hope this is what you needed. I let the dealer do mine. They charged 150 in labor. The bars were about 150...and the front brake line (which needs replaced) was about 50. I hear in addition to left grip removal, bleeding of linked brakes is pretty tough too...several had problems with that. But they can comment on that. i think Wayne in GA had problems with bleeding the brakes??? I think Chuck's mechanic did too....and his brakes didn't work too well for a few days. Maybe these guys can elaborate. I know the local Honda shop told me they used a special device for bleeding/priming the hydraulic fluid on the VTX and Rune linked brakes...and said it was kind of a pain?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thx Redvalk and thx to the unknown author... about 2/3 done with the project... dealer forgot to give us crush washers for the brake banjo bolts so will have to wait and get them before finishing. Project going well so far..
 

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Paducah

What day do you plan on being in paducah? I'm in the St. louis area and
haven't decided which day I'm gonna ride down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
paducah

frankvalk, hgslayer, redvalk... thx for asking... will be in paducah wed eve and leave on sun morn so will be there for most events... hope to meet ya there... am taking route 2 clear across U.S., it starts just north of seattle, and ends just before lake michigan... will then head south to OHIO and stop at my folks place in westerville, oh... gotta help my dad (he's in his mid 80's) with a couple of projects for a day or 2 then head southwest for paducah.
 

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Handle bars

I wrote it right after I did my bars. It was on the old web site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
HEY RUNE 102

I never thanked you for writing up the "how to" bulletin on the switch from a to b bars... followed it not just once, but twice when we did Diver Dave's rune a while back. so here goes: Thank You!
 

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bars

Your welcome. I know others have used my directons to. I am waiting for my unigo trailer. As soon as I get it I will be installing my hitch and my new rear harness. I just received my hitch today from canada. Pretty simple setup. I may write another procedure.
 

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Harness reinstall

A need trick my bud thought of when he swapped out my rear bars. He had me pick up some braided hollow core nylon cord. Spread the weave enough to fit over the end of the wiring harness and pulled tight. Damn thing worked just like a chinese finger handcuff. More he pulled the tighter it held onto the harness. Easy, breasy he had the harness back through the bar in no time.
 

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RUNE handlebars

When changing the handlebars to the pull back bars, does the clutch hose also have to be changed? I know the upper brake hose will be changed, I am just not sure of the clutch. How about the wires from the switchs?
 

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b bars are more comfy........
 

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How much differance is there between the "A" Bars and the "B" bars? I went in to order a new 04 and found out my color selection is limited if I want the Pull back bars. So, now I either keep looking, change my color preferance, or go with the "A" Bars. The Dealer said there was not much differance but he's not the one that's going to be riding my bike. Just thought I'd check with the "experts" <G>. TIA

BTW Merry Christmas.
 

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I have only ridden B bars, I sat on A, there is a 2 inch difference, and given the number of people switching, I decided I needed B bars.

Also, every 05 is B bars, you can not get A bars on an 05,
(so order an 05 :D :D , you can still get any color you want)
 

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I've had both. On my first Rune I had the fowards and I did not mind them but I had to lean foward to grasp them, but it did not seem bad. Then I bought my second Rune that just happen to have pull backs, found I really prefer the pull backs. Allows me to seat more straigth up, and more relax. I'm 5'7" and 210lbs. The pull backs are about 2" longer and back to ya. I don't ride but maybe 2500 miles a year so most of my scoots are just a coulpe of hours here and there, so for me I'd go with color. But if you ride a lot you may want pull backs....... Bars are cheaper and easyer to change than color, and you may even find a better set of bars than the oem pull backs.............THUMPER :a13:
 

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Thanks for the quick reply's. I am heading to the dealer first thing in the morning so I needed the advice today, appreciate the help.
 

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and I forgot to mention that all the 05 are chrome rims :D :D :D
 

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i've had both too. My bike came with forward bars....but after about 4 months...i changed to rear bars. i MUCH prefer the rear bars.......
 
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