welcome to the board!
here is a step by step installation procedure....which was posted on the old board.
I knew there was a reason I kept this :wink:
Thanks to Rune102 for the write-up... Here it is:
---------------------------
Fellow Runeys,
Just spent around 3 hours changing out my forward bars to rears. Not that hard to do. The hardest part was getting the left grip off. I found that if you work a small screwdriver under the rubber from both sides and all around it, spray around a gallon of WD-40 inside, it will come right off. Do this after you have removed the clutch reservoir and left switches. Unless you do the WD-40 route on the left grip, it ain't comin off. Don't force it, just work the screw driver around and spray. It will break it loose. Took the rune for a short 60 mile run. Its about 35 to 40 degrees here in the desert here in California. The rearset handle bars are great. Better seating positon, more comfortable and easier to handle. Anybody with forward bars should make the change to the rear. They are great. Still waiting on my corbin fairing.
All you need is the bars and brake hose. (plus 4 new copper crush washers for the brake line) www.ronayers.com
hose PN 45124-mec-831
B bars PN 53100-mec-830
I got the crush washers at the auto store but they are available from ron ayers.
$184.00 delivered. The local honda shop wanted 198.00 just for the bars.
No. The clips are kind of a pain. Once you see whats going on, it goes pretty easy. The switch assemblies and the master cylinders are kind tricky.
Here you go:
1. Take center 4 allen heads out of speedo cluster.
2. Carefully raise speedo cluster and unplug connector. (rubber inside cover may in way, it has to come out anyway)
3. Remove rubber cover.
4. Pop out (read rip out) clip holding the three wires and remove clip from wires.
5. Unplug the four connectors from the three gray wire bundles.
6. Remove three allen heads from cover just behind headlight. Remove cover. The front screw on the left side is a well nut.
7. Remove one allen head screw from triangle cover just in front of idiot lights. Remove cover by pulling down and wiggling. It has 2 slide mount pins on top.
8. Remove 2 bolts holding idiot lights in. Pull light assembly out of way. It was disconnected in step 5.
9. Remove wires from clip on plate. Clip can stay installed.
10. Remove 2 screws from plate that is behind idiot lights and remove plate with clip. The black Harness is under it.
11. Look at the opening in the center of the handlebars. You should have a grey harness and a black harness that are now free coming out of the hole in the handle bars. Pull the disconnected wires up from inside the tank.
12. Disconnect two wires for clutch switch. Remove 2 bolts securing clutch reservoir and remove. Lower half of bracket may stay (read is
stuck) in switch shell. Keep reservoir high or lockwire it somewhere just to keep it up so air won't go into the line.
13. Remove screw on each side holding chrome ring. Rings are now free to slide on bars.
14. Remove 2 screws holding left switch housing. Remove back half. The half that is left has wires connected to it.
15. Slowly begin to pull wire harness through handlebar while pushing the harness from the center hole. It should come out fairly easy. Make sure connector does not catch on hole opening.
16. Cover everything you can think of up with towels or what ever to keep brake fluid from contacting it.
17. Break the upper hose bolt loose. Not enough to leak , but enough so you can take it off on the bench.
18. Loosen clamp on front end holding brake line. No need to remove it.
19. Break lower hose bolt loose.
20. Remove bolt holding manifold.
21. Remove lower hose bolt at this point. Cover end with rag. It will leak but not to bad.
22. Disconnect the two wires for the brake switch. Remove two bolts securing brake reservoir and remove.
23. Remove 2 screws holding right switch assembly together. Back half will come off, The half that remains has wires on it.
24. Slowly begin to pull wire harness through handlebar while pushing the harness from the center hole. It should come out fairly easy. Make sure connector does not catch on hole opening.
Now all thats left is your left grip and your throttle. Throttle stays on for now.
25. For the left grip, remove allen head end cap from left grip.
26. Take the smallest screwdriver you have and work it in as far as you can between the rubber grip and the bar. Once in as far as you can , spray WD-40 in the opening. Repeat this all round the grip. On the inboard side and where you removed the end cap. It may take 30 minutes to get off. Dont force it. You will see it begin to break loose. DO NOT USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
27. Remove the right allen head cap on the throttle grip.
AT THIS POINT, HAVE A SECOND PERSON HELP SO YOU DONT DROP YOU HANDLEBARS INTO YOUR $1800 GAS TANK.
28. Pop out the 4 chrome caps that cover the bolts on the center off the bars. Remove the four bolts, the center cap, and the handlebars. When you pull the handlebars out, slide the throttle grip off.
29. To assemble, reverse everything I said. Thats the Honda way.
YOU NOW HAVE ABOUT 150 PARTS ON YOUR WORK BENCH!
Now you got it apart. I am not gonna write the rest. You made it this far. Put the rings (in correct direction) on bars first. Slide the throttle on bar as you mount them. Use safetywire to work the harnesses thru the bar. Install brake line WITH NEW COPPER WASHERS after you mount the reservoir. Bleed brakes. Top bleed ports are for the front hand lever. Before you put it all together, once all the stuff is plugged in, turn on power and make sure it all works.
THIS TEXT IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE USED BY STUPID PEOPLE. IF YOU ARE STUPID, AND YOU HURT YOURSELF WHILE DOING THIS, WELL, YOUR'E STUPID AND SHOULD NOT HAVE USED THESE INSTRUCTIONS. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
Hope this helped. (Not the stupid ones).
---------------------------
Hope this is what you needed. I let the dealer do mine. They charged 150 in labor. The bars were about 150...and the front brake line (which needs replaced) was about 50. I hear in addition to left grip removal, bleeding of linked brakes is pretty tough too...several had problems with that. But they can comment on that. i think Wayne in GA had problems with bleeding the brakes??? I think Chuck's mechanic did too....and his brakes didn't work too well for a few days. Maybe these guys can elaborate. I know the local Honda shop told me they used a special device for bleeding/priming the hydraulic fluid on the VTX and Rune linked brakes...and said it was kind of a pain?
here is a step by step installation procedure....which was posted on the old board.
I knew there was a reason I kept this :wink:
Thanks to Rune102 for the write-up... Here it is:
---------------------------
Fellow Runeys,
Just spent around 3 hours changing out my forward bars to rears. Not that hard to do. The hardest part was getting the left grip off. I found that if you work a small screwdriver under the rubber from both sides and all around it, spray around a gallon of WD-40 inside, it will come right off. Do this after you have removed the clutch reservoir and left switches. Unless you do the WD-40 route on the left grip, it ain't comin off. Don't force it, just work the screw driver around and spray. It will break it loose. Took the rune for a short 60 mile run. Its about 35 to 40 degrees here in the desert here in California. The rearset handle bars are great. Better seating positon, more comfortable and easier to handle. Anybody with forward bars should make the change to the rear. They are great. Still waiting on my corbin fairing.
All you need is the bars and brake hose. (plus 4 new copper crush washers for the brake line) www.ronayers.com
hose PN 45124-mec-831
B bars PN 53100-mec-830
I got the crush washers at the auto store but they are available from ron ayers.
$184.00 delivered. The local honda shop wanted 198.00 just for the bars.
No. The clips are kind of a pain. Once you see whats going on, it goes pretty easy. The switch assemblies and the master cylinders are kind tricky.
Here you go:
1. Take center 4 allen heads out of speedo cluster.
2. Carefully raise speedo cluster and unplug connector. (rubber inside cover may in way, it has to come out anyway)
3. Remove rubber cover.
4. Pop out (read rip out) clip holding the three wires and remove clip from wires.
5. Unplug the four connectors from the three gray wire bundles.
6. Remove three allen heads from cover just behind headlight. Remove cover. The front screw on the left side is a well nut.
7. Remove one allen head screw from triangle cover just in front of idiot lights. Remove cover by pulling down and wiggling. It has 2 slide mount pins on top.
8. Remove 2 bolts holding idiot lights in. Pull light assembly out of way. It was disconnected in step 5.
9. Remove wires from clip on plate. Clip can stay installed.
10. Remove 2 screws from plate that is behind idiot lights and remove plate with clip. The black Harness is under it.
11. Look at the opening in the center of the handlebars. You should have a grey harness and a black harness that are now free coming out of the hole in the handle bars. Pull the disconnected wires up from inside the tank.
12. Disconnect two wires for clutch switch. Remove 2 bolts securing clutch reservoir and remove. Lower half of bracket may stay (read is
stuck) in switch shell. Keep reservoir high or lockwire it somewhere just to keep it up so air won't go into the line.
13. Remove screw on each side holding chrome ring. Rings are now free to slide on bars.
14. Remove 2 screws holding left switch housing. Remove back half. The half that is left has wires connected to it.
15. Slowly begin to pull wire harness through handlebar while pushing the harness from the center hole. It should come out fairly easy. Make sure connector does not catch on hole opening.
16. Cover everything you can think of up with towels or what ever to keep brake fluid from contacting it.
17. Break the upper hose bolt loose. Not enough to leak , but enough so you can take it off on the bench.
18. Loosen clamp on front end holding brake line. No need to remove it.
19. Break lower hose bolt loose.
20. Remove bolt holding manifold.
21. Remove lower hose bolt at this point. Cover end with rag. It will leak but not to bad.
22. Disconnect the two wires for the brake switch. Remove two bolts securing brake reservoir and remove.
23. Remove 2 screws holding right switch assembly together. Back half will come off, The half that remains has wires on it.
24. Slowly begin to pull wire harness through handlebar while pushing the harness from the center hole. It should come out fairly easy. Make sure connector does not catch on hole opening.
Now all thats left is your left grip and your throttle. Throttle stays on for now.
25. For the left grip, remove allen head end cap from left grip.
26. Take the smallest screwdriver you have and work it in as far as you can between the rubber grip and the bar. Once in as far as you can , spray WD-40 in the opening. Repeat this all round the grip. On the inboard side and where you removed the end cap. It may take 30 minutes to get off. Dont force it. You will see it begin to break loose. DO NOT USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
27. Remove the right allen head cap on the throttle grip.
AT THIS POINT, HAVE A SECOND PERSON HELP SO YOU DONT DROP YOU HANDLEBARS INTO YOUR $1800 GAS TANK.
28. Pop out the 4 chrome caps that cover the bolts on the center off the bars. Remove the four bolts, the center cap, and the handlebars. When you pull the handlebars out, slide the throttle grip off.
29. To assemble, reverse everything I said. Thats the Honda way.
YOU NOW HAVE ABOUT 150 PARTS ON YOUR WORK BENCH!
Now you got it apart. I am not gonna write the rest. You made it this far. Put the rings (in correct direction) on bars first. Slide the throttle on bar as you mount them. Use safetywire to work the harnesses thru the bar. Install brake line WITH NEW COPPER WASHERS after you mount the reservoir. Bleed brakes. Top bleed ports are for the front hand lever. Before you put it all together, once all the stuff is plugged in, turn on power and make sure it all works.
THIS TEXT IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE USED BY STUPID PEOPLE. IF YOU ARE STUPID, AND YOU HURT YOURSELF WHILE DOING THIS, WELL, YOUR'E STUPID AND SHOULD NOT HAVE USED THESE INSTRUCTIONS. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
Hope this helped. (Not the stupid ones).
---------------------------
Hope this is what you needed. I let the dealer do mine. They charged 150 in labor. The bars were about 150...and the front brake line (which needs replaced) was about 50. I hear in addition to left grip removal, bleeding of linked brakes is pretty tough too...several had problems with that. But they can comment on that. i think Wayne in GA had problems with bleeding the brakes??? I think Chuck's mechanic did too....and his brakes didn't work too well for a few days. Maybe these guys can elaborate. I know the local Honda shop told me they used a special device for bleeding/priming the hydraulic fluid on the VTX and Rune linked brakes...and said it was kind of a pain?
