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Weblink to find a distributor near you:
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/ ... htype=dist

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/ ... g=00001048




A source of the pure powder (I'm interested in this now that I found it. This is because the powder can be added to anything -- without incompatibility based upon the carrier oil the powder is added to)
[/url]http://rosemillcom.host-manager.com/product.asp?productid=258465 <-- these folks are expensive
http://www.lowerfriction.com is a much better source


Edit 19-Apr-08: 0.4 micron size in tungsten disulfide is now available. Tungsten is better than moly, but was more expensive until recently.
I am testing the 0.05 micron as well, but that stuff is a true nanoparticle product.
 

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I ordered a 1 pound container of the moly powder. It cost $40 with shipping. I think it will go a long way. Premix the powder in the gear oil, shake, then put it in.

The concentration info on the Dow Corning container of Molykote should give me a clue on how much to add to a quart of oil for a 2% solution for the crankcase. (I did very well in chemistry). The particle size will pass through oil filters.

Most likely I will be using the powder to lube my AR-15 .50AE Cal bolt... and other guns.

Nope SiteData, I am not considering putting it in the coolant! :roll:
And No JohnDK, you cant SMOKE the stuff! :shock:
Ken (33,700 miles)
 

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Jersey Boy
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ken,
I didn't pass chemistry with flying colors :( (How much should be added to a quart of gear oil ) if I purchased the 1 lb. container of moly?
T.I.A Rich K ( Rune Ski )
I have quite a few friends with Runes, Wings and various other bikes I will share it with.
 

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Runeski,
As soon as I get the container and see what the VOLUME of 1 pound is, i can then let you know. I will make a chart for varous percentages and how many "teaspoons" you have to add to a quart to get the percentage you need.

Ken (33,800 miles - and got good and wet riding home from work yesterday!)
 

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Jersey Boy
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ken
I was going to add in my post about "teaspoons" as a measureing device but I was afraid someone may read it and add it to their coffee :shock:
Thanks,
Rich K ( Rune Ski )
 

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KenCrawleySC said:
I ordered a 1 pound container of the moly powder. It cost $40 with shipping. I think it will go a long way. Premix the powder in the gear oil, shake, then put it in.

The concentration info on the Dow Corning container of Molykote should give me a clue on how much to add to a quart of oil for a 2% solution for the crankcase. (I did very well in chemistry). The particle size will pass through oil filters.

Ken (33,700 miles)
You are saying that you plan on making a solution of 2% molybdenum solution for the crankcase? On a Wet Clutch motorcycle? For the rear hub I can understand, but the crankcase? Hmm...

Be sure to let us know how that turns out...

http://www.climaxmolybdenum.com/AboutUs ... istory.htm
 

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Yes, I know how it sounds for the crankcase with a wet clutch. I have been using moly in the crankcase for 20,000 miles so far in my Rune and no slipping, even with my downshifting. This is with synthetic oil of course.
Ken

UPDATE at 33,000 & 41,500 MILES: STILL NO SLIPPING OF THE CLUTCH with moly in the crankcase. ken
 

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The MOS2 powder arrived in a 1 qt resealable container, with the powder inside a plastic bag. The volume appears to be 90% of a quart, which comes to 173 teaspoons (fluid measure).

1 quart is 192 teaspoons

So, for the crankcase (which has the wet clutch), I will be adding 2 teaspoons for a 1% solution per quart (instead of adding 1 ounce of the Molykote liquid). Shake up the bottle thoroughly. That makes 8 teaspoons total.

10 teaspoons added to your 1 qt bottle of 80W rear end oil to make the solution 5%.

Now there wont be any incompatibility issues between the carrier oil suspension of the GearGuard that I have been using since 1978 and the new synthetic lubricants. And, this is a whole lot cheaper to do!

If I have any modifications, I will post them here.

edit Sep 08: after 3 years from starting the powder experiment I have increased the concentration up to 1 tablespoon per quart. At the next oil change in Sept08 I will begin higher concentrations of 5 tablespoons per 4 quarts (+25%) But, alas! We are now using tungsten, not moly.


Ken (33,250 miles)
 

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Thanks Ken, let us know if anything changes.

A fellow VTX rider here is a lubricants distributor, he says you'd better stock up on Moly, only one active mine in the world now - in Indonesia.
 

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Thanks for the info David. I will eventually transition over to titaniumdisulfide. It is better than Moly, but more expensive of course. Ask your lubricants fellow rider if he knows anything about it.
Update July 06: you can also get tungstendisulfide. All of those metal sulfides are about the same (moly, titanium, tungsten)

The absolute best has not been refined yet: unobtainiumdisulfide :roll:



Ken (34,000 miles today!!)If any of you guys want a sealed packet of this stuff for your rear drive, then contact me. $5 and a SASE will do it.
 

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Ken, what's the latest on your endeaver to add Moly to the final drive fluid?

Some chatter on the VTX board about changing the fluid after only 600 miles, which I strongly disagree with. Factory Rat at the Open House last year told me that the Moly needs to stay in the final drive as long as possible, hence HAM's sevice interval of 24k before the first fluid change (and magnet in the drain plug).
 

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I changed mine at 1000 / 25000 miles, using Amsoil syn 80w as the oil plus the moly. I have also been putting Moly in my crankcase since 5k miles with no problems with the clutch. I found a source of technical grade (1.5 micron) powder. This eliminates the compatibility issues with the oils that were discussed on this forum previously.

I have been using moly ever since 1980 when I discovered it while stationed in Germany.

Ken (27,800 miles) edit: (37,800 miles, thanks tim)
 

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Ken, 27,800 miles? Have you gone thru a "black hole" and your miles are now going in reverse? Or are you just checking to see if we're paying attention.

I am. I'm betting more like 37,800 miles?????
 

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:oops: thanks fellow engineer (can you tell that I have been up to my eyeballs in FORTRAN code right now????????

37,800 miles. And, I just put on a new rear tire without removing the rear fender... only the exhaust shroud. Piece of cake and much faster!
ken
(37,800 miles)
 

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Left side exhaust shroud? Wish you'd have taken pictures. :cry:

Thanks for the Moly update. I saw where you'd posted the 1.5micron Moly earlier this year, I'll find the post to see what you said for a source.

My VTX budy that does the lubricants is packaging Moly for the military for some guns (not sure what type or application). I'll ask him if he thinks his stuff is okay for the final drive.
 

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I've followed the conversation on moly for a while and I guess the real message has been lost to me. I'm sure there are others like me who are wondering, "why?" Could someone put it in numbers for me? What's the real advantage of using moly or other lube additives?

I know particle sizes are smaller and the additives can pass through the filter better. Is there significant evidence of reduced engine wear or lower temp? There's got to be more that I'm missing. I understand some who have used the additives have not had problems, but what about actual improvements? Anyone experience measureable benefits?
 
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