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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I didn't get a manual with my Rune - do you check the oil with the bike on the side stand. How much oil do you need for a Oil / Filter change?

The dealer is mailing me the manual but I already have over 1000 miles - is the first oil change @ 1000?

TIA
 

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The first oil change is at 4,000 miles and then every 8,000 miles thereafter. It takes approximately 4 quarts with oil/filter change and you check the level with the bike straight-up and the oil fill plug just resting on the opening...not screwed all the way down.
 

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Jersey Boy
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Oil Change? What oil change?
Here in Jersey we don't have to change the oil. We just run up and down the Turnpike between the Tank farms and the oil seeps in through the air filter.
You could use 225 down in stink-a-dena. :hun1:
 

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Swamp Rat
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Skibum:

That is a terrible thing to say about the beautiful Garden State.

You should not do that again…………THAT is my job!
 

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Jersey Boy
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Chuck,
We all know that Jersey boys always return home.
So say what you will (I for one enjoy your comments) we know that you long to return to Monmouth County.
Where else can you be with-in 1 hour of: The Shore, The Mountains, Broadway shows, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Great Adventure Amusement park, Carnegie Hall, The Guggenheim, Casinos, Independence Hall, The Appalachian trail, Ski Slopes, American Museum of Natural History, more Superfund sites than anywhere in the country, More Pharmaceutical companies providing “free air induced” immunization, The Liberty Bell, Liberty State Park, The Statue of Liberty, Amish communities, Tomas Edison's house, Madison Square Garden, Yankee Stadium, Shea Stadium, The Meadowlands complex, The Link (old Vet Stadium), Oil Refineries, Nuclear power plants, 16 State parks and best of all 1134 people per sq mile ( in 2000).
I know that some of these places are not in Jersey, but they are still only an hour away.
:a13:
 

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Swamp Rat
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Actually I do like New Jersey, but if you mention one word of this to RuneSki I swear that by all that is Holey in Camden,
I’ll rat fink on the Cuban smugglers transporting the lifesaving bootleg penicillin to the Jersey shore.

Big Deal!

Within one hour you’ve got a big hill, dancing fancy boys on Broadway, a barn with old pictures in it, a place for fat ladies to sing,
this is not Switzerland their are not “ski slops” at best they’re inclines, a broken bell that was originally used to call the volunteer fire brigade,
a room full of teepees, horse drawn traffic jams, a sandlot for two has-been baseball teams, 763 people on work release and 371 on parole.

Nothing exciting.

Now where I live I can go 5 minutes east and be eaten by a shark, go 20 minutes west and be eaten by a huge lizard,
north 30 minutes there are bugs that can embalm you and 15 minutes to the south you can sworn at in 25 different languages.

Now that is exciting.
 

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Jersey Boy
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John, Chuck
You forgot to mention, we are 20 something hours away from gatorsville (Fla.) I chose to live in Jersey for that particular reason, Florida is SOMETIMES a nice place to visit :wink:
One day I may even go out to visit some of our members in Fla. Once they let me out of prison, of course.
Rich K ( Rune Ski )
 

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Jersey Boy
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I don't like the idea of that milage interval between changes ( I know Honda recommends those #'s). I change all my machines @ 3000-3500 mi. between changes. The first change I like to do at around 900 - 1000 mi.
I'm old fashioned and anal.
Geez, does make me an old ass :?: :?: :roll:
Maybe I'm wrong and wasteful but I feel better about that interval between changes.
Thanks for listening,
Rich K ( Rune Ski )
 

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I have over 44 quarts of old oil that I need to take out to recycle.
I guess that means I am averaging 3,000 miles per change too.
Amsoil quart bottles by the way.......
Ken (33,670 miles)
 

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i can hear arguments on both sides.....for changing 'early'....or more normal/traditional interval......and for changing when the manual calls for it.

Interesting note on technical board right now about why Honda recommends so long before changing out the final drive oil, for instance. they say some special additive is in the final drive....and supposedly they want that molly additive...or whatever it is...in there for 'the duration'...which on on the final drive, is a remarkable 24,000 miles...if i recall right! On most other bikes....you change final drive LONG before that....like 4k...or 8k...surely 12k at most. some maybe even 600 miles??? But this one says 24,000. Just says inspect oil before then.

i suppose if you made sure you put in that additve....like the Tech board post says the dealer did...then i guess it would be ok, perhaps even better to change early.

me....i'm from the old school if "mother Honda" says do it at "xxx" miles...then that's EXACTLY when i'm going to do it. No earlier....no later. And i'm going to use EXACTLY what "mother honda" says to use for the fluid/part that gets changed.

I know some will have other opinions. And that's cool. I'm just saying I am an Engineer....doing design work for a living (be it electrical, not mechanical). But when getting ones Engineering degree, the difference between being a Mechanical and Electrical Engineer is a mere handful of classes...so our over all background is very similar. and the old Engineer in me says....follow what the Honda Engineers said to do.......the guys who spent YEARS designing this bike/motor....the Engineers who know FAR MORE than i ever dream to about this product........
 

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Swamp Rat
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In that I changed my final drive at about 8000, not paying attention to the recommended mileage and not knowing about the molly additive, makes me wonder if I should obtain the additive and put some it in.
 

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My boss used to work for GE, designing tuners for television sets. He is an electronics engineer. His boss told him to find ways to save money, and even one 2 cent resistor cut out of a circuit was "good" to do.

Ok, now, move into the Honda building. The engineer can make an engine or power train that will last a really long time. Now, cut costs, and make sure the customers have to buy a new bike at some time in the future.

So.... an engineer makes a design based upon good physics, chemistry, and then has to keep the design "reasonable" to keep costs down.

Our Runes are not spaceprobes, and so, there are compromises made in many places. Lubricants and coolants are slippery subjects, and the engineers chose middle of the road for those components in our Runes. We can do better.

Ken
 

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Jersey Boy
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All,
I changed my oil and final drive fluid at 1000 mi. The final drive fluid I removed came out the color of mud. The fluid I replaced it with (Honda final drive gear oil ) was between color of Jack Daniels whiskey and Bacardies 151 proof rum.
Maybe the "additive" that Tim spoke of turned it that color in such a short period of time :?: I don't know.
Rich K ( Rune Ski )
 

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The Moly additive is dark grey to black. It turns oil the same color even when added in small amounts... so you cant go by "how it looks" when Moly is in the mix.
 

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The rear hub is a 24k mile first service because Honda wants the Moly to stay on the gears.

Just putting Moly into the oil isn't going to replicate what the factory does of "painting" the gears during assembly and then adding the fluid. Oil won't wash Moly 60 when painted on clean & dry gears.

It really is a mistake to drain the hub early. CERTAINLY check the fluid level, but don't drain and/or flush until you get near the 24k mark.

Scolded by Honda at last years Homecoming when I asked about this very subject.
 

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I disagree with the scolding you got. Since I am replacing the rear end fluid with a lubricant with MORE by percentage of moly than the factory, there is no removal of this wonderous greasy molecule from the load bearing surfaces which have the moly "burnished" into the interstices of the metal. To do that you would have to actually hit the teeth with a solvent under pressure.

Yes to what you say, if someone just drains and puts in pure 80w gear oil, synthetic or not.

I got my free sample of Molykote from Dow Corning today. Interesting, it is a quart bottle, same as the one I have in my lubricants locker.

The 1 pound of powder should be here Wednesday. The titration of the components is by percentage of weight.

Ken
 
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