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I PLUGGED MY REAR TIRE AND I KNOW I SHOULD REPLACE IT. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY TIPS ON REMOVING THE REAR TIRE. THE SMALL OWNERS MANUAL USES A DIFFERENT PROCEDURE THAN THE LARGE MECHANICS MANUAL. PLEASE PROVIDE ANY RECOMMENDATIONS. ALSO, WHAT IS A GOOD REPLACEMENT TIRE AT A REASONABLE PRICE. APPARENTLY MOST OF THE TIRES THAT SIZE ARE OF A SOFTER COMPOUND FOR A LIGHTER BIKE. WHEN I CALLED THE SHOPS FOR LABOR TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE TIRE ONE WAS 55.OO AND THE OTHER WAS 130.00 DOES ONE DEALER KNOW SOMETHING THE OTHER DOES NOT? TIRE IS EXTRA.
 

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my dealer wants about 325 for tire and labor. So if you can get it done....RIGHT...with no scracthes...for the prices you are quoting....i'd jump on it!
 

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Just had the Rear Tire replaced

Just had my rear tire replaced and stayed with the stock tire, like you said my dealer stated that a larger tire is softer and would change the profile of the bike. $173 for tire and $123 for install...but make sure you have them cover the brake on the rear before removing the tire, as the tire will shift and fall hitting hte rear brake system...mine hit and they are purchasing me a new one, made about 5-6 big chips of paint from the SPEC 47 rims. Will let you know later how the CHROME rims look...since the dealer is paying for a new rim I might as well upgrade....

Dave
 

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Rim Damage

Had my new rear tire put on Friday...Gave the dealer a copy of the info from this board regarding the damage that can occur during the change...Cut a pasted this onto a MS Word document a handed it to them. Got the bike back... all looked ok...didn't rotate the wheel to look it all over... talked briefly with the mechanic who changed it about the notes I had given them...he said he was used to being careful based on working on Goldwings... I drove off .. ran into some rain...bike got dirty... each gas stop I looked at the rim ...no problem... on Sunday... I washed the bike and saw what I thought was some gunk on the wheel... figured I picked up some tar from the road or that the dealer had a bit of drippage from some tire sealant or something...As I washed it off it was real obvious that the wheel was damaged... It looks like they used a screw driver to put the rubber on or dropped it on the brake as was suggested here...... when I was talking to the mechanic...he did show me the parts he took off....and said the tire fell right out... I should have stopped him right there and rolled the bike around to see the entire wheel ... He said he didn't have to take the fender off to get the wheel changed.... I suppose the brakes or a screw driver on the tire change are the 2 leading suspects.... Needless to say I am pretty PO'd. But ...the bell has been rung..the damage is done...hopefully the dealer will go good by it... I have a call into him now... he has been very good and I have no reason to think he won't be as upset about this as I am...
 

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If they dont take the rear fender off, they will most likely hit the wheel on the wheel studs.
Honda of Rocky Mt. NC replaced my rear wheel because their best tech, who was the best best best, did not take off the fender. The tech later told the owner he was too embarrassed to admit it at the time.

So. To take off the rear wheel you MUST:

remove the left exhaust cover
remove the left cover for the shock abosorber (so you can get to the tail light plug) you may as well crank it tighter a few clicks with a screwdriver while you have it exposed.
remove the fender

If not. get a new rear wheel.

geez. read my posts about this.

Ken (32,010 miles)
 

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This is why I'll always give them the just wheel. With my lift and adapter it took me 1/2 hour to remove the front tire (fender et all, "by the book") and 1 hour to put back on. I had the wife pull the axle as I held the tire. I found that if I dropped the bike down to where the tire just touched the ground this removed the weight of the wheel and the axle slipped right out. I kept the bike at this height until I came back and slipped the axle right back in. I had no “help” when I put it back on.
One thing to look out for is having an Allen wrench large enough for the end of the axle.I followed Ken's advice and tightened the pinch bolts after I had tightened the axle bolt.
The shop on the other hand cost me an extra 2 hours! :cus:
I was there at 9:15am as agreed, took them 1 hour to change out tire, charged me $15 extra because I brought my own tire (Honda Direct line- $169) $38.88 total for the change out and balance. I checked the rime when I put it in the truck at the dealer, looked good. When I got home and I was washing off the tire sealer and the glue left over from the old weights, low and behold bubbles!!! Right at the rime. :banghead:
Back to the dealer (40mins)
Remount tire (30mins)
Back to house (40mins)
Rewash wheel (10mins)
The service manager kept telling me about how NET tires are old (mine are 10-03, year and a half old-give me a break :roll: ) and not stored correctly, that they don’t “set up right”. I was just waiting for them to come out and tell me that they couldn’t fix it and it’s the tires fault.
After a free grilled Hot Dog the Assistant service manager (I like him, nice guy) came out with my wheel and told me that a piece of rubber from the covers they use on the tools (so not to scratch) had gotten stuck between the rim and tire, oops sorry about that. I never saw the manager again.
The best part was no Dings, Nicks or Scratches and I got to clean and wax all the hard to get to spots on the front end.
out
 

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since i have the money....and i'm not going to die with that money, i just prefer to let the dealer do it. that way.....if anything gets scratched.....he replaces it! If i do it.....given my......ah em......sort of limited mechanical apptitude :oops: ....any scratches I cause would be on MY dime.

I do my own oil/plugs/ etc.....but i don't do tires, valves, etc. Given my scheudle...it's all i can do just to wash the dang thing....and ride it some 8)

I do the same with all my bikes. ANd i haven't serviced my own truck(s) in.....well....i don't have enough fingers and toes to count that far back :roll:

Oh....just for you....KEN.....Valk has almost 75k on it now....Rune is at 12k...but after ride this weekend and riding to Hoot and back next week...i'll be well over 13k. And yes....my bike looks and stays IMMACULATELY clean....gets washed after almost every ride....waxed every other month....and almost never gets ridden in the rain :lol:

But my hat goes off to you that do all your own maintenance....and those who ride their Rune....like a Wing :twisted:
 

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Hi Redwalk,
:oops: in italy j could say you are a " snob "

it is so exciting to have hands dirty of black grease and go to the riders bar,
drinking a coffe ( 5 cc of italian coffe are stronger than 2/3 liters of american coffee) and saying "well j replaced that damned tire, coming directly from States as non available here, well the tire man didn't know from where to start so j had to put my hands anywhere"
:twisted:
yabadahhhhhhhhhhhhhh

ciao from hannibal (waiting for the rear tire replacement "sic")
 

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ask my wife....if i had a dollar for every time i tried to do some major repair work to a vehicle over the years....and broke something....i'd be rich.

Like i say around work...hey, i'm a dang Electrical Engineer...not a Mechanical Engineer 8)

Or as Clint Eastwood once said, every good man has to know his limitations. I know mine....and for those 'limitations'....i take it to the dealer :wink:
 

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hmmm...interesting Ken. I LOVE Avons. I'm checking on this.

My standard questions would be....is it a FRONT tire.....and do the rim requirements on the Avon web site match with our rim size? What is the rim size on the front on the RUne? Avon page for this tire shows min 4.25 and max 5. What is our RUne?

And is it a front tire? If so....you may have found a winner for ME!!!! i love Avons...and i like going BIGGER....never smaller! This just may fit the bill....looking at it some more right now.....
 

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for me...the answer is NO. I just confirmed that specific tire is a BACK tire....and.....our front rim is 4.00 inch...and the recommended rim size is MINIMUM 4.25 inch (and up to 5.00 inch). AV45 ST is the matching FRONT tire (not AV46 ST). and of course, all they have is SMALLER front tires...and i aint goin there....for now (though i do love Avons!!)

Darn it....you had me excited for a minute there...........
 

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Oh well. The rim size incompatibility clinches it. The rear tire I have now is at 5,000 miles and still looks new. Iwill need to measure the tread depth. I dont think I will buy any more of the Dunlop D251s for the front. The tread is so thin to begin with. Soooooo. Maybe my next front tire will be another Goldwing tire.

Oh, I added more Moly this oil change than last time. The shifting is a lot less "klunky" And, no clutch slippage. I added 8oz of Molykote Gearguard M by Dow Corning, that's 2oz/qt. Are you putting a magnet on the oil filter yet, oh fellow engineer Tim???

Ken (32,150 miles)
 

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nah.....i've owned so many Hondas ...and they're so reliable...i just run em' like the manual says to. I use Honda oil till about 12k...then switch to Honda synthetic. if manual says 4k to first oil change....that's what i do. etc.

But you folks running the cool radiator fluid...and special oils...etc., that's cool. this engineer comes from the conservative 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' school of engineering. Or maybe it's the lazy man in me? :wink:

anyway, no special fluids or do-dads here. That would take away from my chrome money 8)
 

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Tires,tires,tires.......

THis is a bit windy so bear with me...

Just an observation, opinion and request for feedback regarding tires.... I now have 19,000 miles on my Rune... Am on my third front and second rear tire.

My first front lasted 8500 miles...was in dire need of replacement when I was finally able to get it in...should have changed it at 7500. My second front was changed out at 18,000 so I got 9500 from it... and was cuppped but nothing scary as with the first...probably could have gotten another couple thousand miles safely... Time was right so I changed . My rear was changed out at 16000 and in need...ordered the new at 15000 but couldn't stay off the bike. Wore the center tread down to a shadow in the last 1000 miles.

First front was run at 35 lbs pressure to stay within the Dunlop suggested pressure limits. I did a lot of carving the center line after around 3500 miles and noticed the cupping started almost immediatedly at that time and seemed to accelerate from that point on.... I carved the line just because I could and it was so much fun.... I think the combo of tire pressure and carving caused its early demise. 2nd Front was run for 4000 miles at 35 lbs and then after taking the wrenchheads on this boards advise I upped the pressure to 41lbs front(4000 miles) and rear (12500 miles)... I noticed an immediate increase in gas mileage from around 35 up to 39mpg. I did NOT carve with the 2nd front for the first 7000 miles and noticed very little cupping...I attributed it to tire pressure and lack of carving. So being the smart guy I am, I decided to carve the center line off and on during a 200 mile trip...within a week I noticed the early stages of cupping...it may have been the natural progression of wear or maybe the carving started it (that's what I think). Anyway....with the 3rd front, I will maintain 41 lbs pressure -cold. ...and will not carve...I suspect I will get as good or better than the 9500 I had with the 2nd **NOTE -I live in a cooler (roads) climate than most...it may help my tire last longer.


Now for the rear tire...I began to notice wear about 1000 miles after increasing the tire pressure from 35 to 41 at 12,500 mile and the tire went from looking real good to no center tread in 3500 ...aha..could it be natural wear or did the increase in pressure accelerate the wear... I watch my tires closely and I do believe the higher pressure in the rear caused faster wear... The outer treads were still in good shape with no noticeable cupping.

So with my new rear I will run 38 lbs and my front 41 lbs (both cold reads).... I'll keep you posted on the results.... My gas mileage has been consistantly holding around 38.5 mpg with these pressures and the bike feels real stable....

Now for my question... are there any consequenses to any part of the bike as the result of running different pressures front vs rear?

I am curious of any observations the rest of you have.

I find it funny that my gas mileage seems to correlate directly with my rear tire pressure when the pressure is between 33 and 40... my gas mileage matches the pressure.... :shock:
 

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Hi,
17.600 km. j must really replace the rear tire. the last ride to germany with my passenger fiore reduced its life a lot also considering the speed j presume.
40 psi.
front tire, j replaced at 11.500 km, the second will work for other 2/3.000 km (42 psi)
j must reduce the psi for the rear tire upto 38.
ciao
hannibal
 
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Tires...

Here in north Atlanta, my dealer got $409 for the tires and $70 each to change them. It took them 5 hours to get it done. Biggest thing was the front forks...
 
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