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Synthetic Oil - do you use it?

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After my first 500 miles (touring around South Carolina in one day) I had Honda in Aiken put Amsoil 10-40 Motorcycle oil in the crankcase. I have had two more oil changes before I hit 5,000 miles. I am interested (read as anal-retentive :shock: ) in knowing what oil everyone else is using in their Runes and watching how their machines wear over the miles. I also swapped out the differential with synthetic 80W (4oz) plus 25% Dow Corning GearGuard-M Molycoat at 5,000 (1oz).
 

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i will change to synthetic with my next....second...oil change. My first change...PER THE BOOK...occured at 4000. My next...per the book, will be at 12000. Then i'll change to Synthetic. I'll use Honda Synthetic oil. Been using it in my Valk ever since 97. It has 66k miles. Never any problems.
 

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I used to use amsoil in my cruiser and my wing. Now I use Rotella synthetic in my wing and cant tell the differance in shifting from Amsoil and it costs all of 13 bucks a gallon. When I get my rune (soon I hope) I will use it in the Rune as well.
 

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savings?

KenCrawley Its not all about savings but the savings it there. I couldnt tell the differance at half the cost and none of the Avon/Amway Hype. Amsoil is a fine oil as the themselves claim. Now if they get off their Avon/Amway sales garbage and stock it at the local autoparts store like the rest I may very well use it again. In the mean time I refuse to pay as much or more more for an oil that uses a pyramid type marketing system. Its a good oil, they need to take the high road and be in the open market. Until then, no thanks, I dont see any benefit.

All the sites you posted appear to be hosted by amsoils own marketing team or am I mistaken?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Amsoil Posts

yep. You are right - the posts are Amsoil. I don't sell the stuff, and I agree about pyramid marketing being a PIA. But: the 4-ball wear test speaks a lot for how well a lubricant works. You cant argue against the wear scar as an indicator that is in the realm of the stresses in a cycle engine. I only found one site that mentioned Rotella == but that was for the synthetic Diesel Engine oil, which may have additives that arent good for a wet clutch.

WRT my Rune's rear end gear case: I am very interested in seeing how much metal "paste" shows up on the magnetic drain plug on the rear end after the next 5,000 miles. When I switched my last 3 Volvos to the synthetic rear axle 75W-90 oil I noticed that there was practically NO further metal "dust" on the magnets for those 3 cars. Since the next scheduled crankcase oil change (PER THE BOOK) is 12,000 miles, I will send an oil sample to be analyzed and let youse guys know the result.

I am buying a house just a mile off I-95 here in South Carolina, my commute to work will be 500 miles per week. A whole lot of that will be with 2 wheels. Ken (Rune-35,600 miles and ticking)
 

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KenCrawleySC No question its good oil. All the tests are by them though as far as I know. On the other dise fo th ecoin I know of 1500 goldwings with over 300,000 miles using dino oil. I use sny because in every brand my bikes shift better. I also beleive it holds up better under heat. I do not believe Ill ever keep a bike long enough to see if it will go 300,000 miles.
Amsoil is good, I am just sick of the amway hype and quite frankly I think it has hurt them in the market place. I think they would do much better in the open market...jmo. [/b]
 

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Oils

I've Been Watching this thread and must add my 2 cents.

I use Amsoil, not because its a better synthetic but because its cheaper and I can go longer between oil changes. You do not have to be an Amsoil distributor to buy it from them, in fact my local repair shop carries it in inventory at about $3.50 less a quart then Mobil 1 Red Cap.

Honda recommends an 8k mile change interval. From the other boards I've been on most folks change every 4k miles (this is an OK practice, I do my car every 3500 miles instead of 7500 miles). I also put a lot more miles on my bikes and like the longer interval period. The Rune is a F6 engine and been around long enough for Honda to know if engine wear is a problem and they recommend (actually sell) a synthetic blend. IMHO if you're a 3-4k mile oil changer use petroleum based, if you're looking for longer interval and smoother clutch use synthetic. My only caution is make sure what ever brand you use meets specification API service classification SE, SF or Higher JASO 4T service classification: MA Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
I've read several articles about synthetic over petroleum oils, and the bottom line is if they meet the motor manufactures specifications they all perform pretty much equal. Synthetics do resist heat better and breakdown more slowly and I personally think (in a wet clutch bike) shifting is less clunky.
 

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and Honda says something about do NOT use 'molly'...or something like that. Honda makes two synthetics (or used to...maybe they only make one now????). One with molly, one without. My service department says for both my Valk and my Runes....do NOT use the one with Molly.

I use Honda synthetic and go 8k on the Valk. I'll be changing to Honda synthetic on the Rune's second oil change...which comes at 12k. And i'll go the recommended 8k between oil changes. my valk has NEVER, EVER 'ate' a drop of oil.....and the synthetic breaks down less....and the Valk seems to shift quieter using synthetic oil???
 

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Allthough I use synthetic in my Z3 M, the Wing and used to in my LC til I sold it I allways changed out at 3,000 miles when possible. I allways felt that even though the lubrication may be better the amount of contaminants that ends up in the oil by 3,000 miles is the same. Even in DIno oil the oil itself doesnt wear out (so they claim) it just gets dirty. You can haul a truck load of bottles of new oil and its just oil. You legally cant haul more than 5 gallons of used oil with out a lic as its considered hazordous waste. I recycle the oil so even if Im changing too often (is that possible to have oil to clean?) its not harming the enviroment to my knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Joe,
I'm curious. How do you recycle your oil? Does that mean you take it to the dump to the recycle bin, or do you use it somehow?
 

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syntetic blend

J filled the bike new with Valvoline syntetic bland 10-40
J changed the engine oil and filter at 6.000 km (very black).
In my firm we have several trucks and cars so we change oil ourselves.
The price of new oil includes the tax for the old oil recycling. we have iron drums where to put old oil and one register where to register the quantity. when we have 200/300 liters of old oil we call the authorised firm for collecting it.
J pay a wholesailer price for oils
the Valvoline oil syntetic blend 10-40 cost tax included euro 7,20 = $ 8,64 per one liter = +/- 35,00 $ per gallon
the gasoline cost is euro 1,15 per liter = $ 5,52 per gallon.
A good wine costs euro 2,00 per 0,75 liter.
Ciao
hannibal
p.s.
if you have problems in recycling oil it can be mixed to Diesel Petrol for trucks (small quantity helps injectors)
 

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Ken,
In Jersey we recycle our oil into the ground where we plant our tomatoes. That's why Jersey's tomatoes are the best :wink: .
But on the serious side I bring 5 to 10 gallons of oil to our reclaimation center and they recycle it.
Rich K. ( Rune Ski )
 

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Oil change frequency

I change my oil every 1000 miles. If its black then those metal particles have already worn your engine. My bike likes Harleys synthetic oil. Do not use any oil that says energy saving: your clutch will slip.
 

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Amsoil

Amsoil... yep, used it for 50,000 miles on the Valk Tourer, too. Rat Dog sent in a sample to Amsoil after 9000 miles in his 99 Standard and the report showed almost no contaminants... agree U could use any high quality dino or blend if you change avery 3000 miles but if you go longer, go for syn... just MHO..
 
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