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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
see my website for this list:
http://ken.crawley.org under Motorcycling

Front Tires:

Road Miles achieved: Mounted on: Type: Cost:
6,402 miles -- start: 0 Dunlop 150/60R-18 $stock
8,828 miles -- start: 6,402 Dunlop 120/70-18 $84
11,870 miles--start: 15,230 Dunlop 150/70-18 (GW tire)$188
tbd miles --2start: 27,100 Dunlop 150/60R-18 $170


Rear Tires:

9,500 0 Dunlop D251 180/55R-17 $stock
11,500 9,500 Dunlop D220 200/55ZR-17 $148
6,000 21,000 Metzeler 210/50ZR-17 $180
tbd 27,000 Avon AV-46ST 190/50ZR-17 $131
 

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Thanks for the info Ken,
You may want to look at the front tire specs you've given us again though. Wasn't there some 130's in the list.
And I bet that 200/50/17 was a bugger to fit on the front too :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
oops. corrections made. And, the paperwork shows the front tire was a 120, not a 130.
And it looks like the Goldwing front tire is a sweetie for high mileage!
Ken (27,450 miles)
 

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Have you noticed any difference in the handling as you've gone through the various sizes? Any preferences?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
difference in performance: the 210 tire is too big for responsive handling. When I put the 190 on last week during my trip up to VA I could immediately tell that my Rune likes to 'change lanes quickly' again.

The stock front tire is also maybe a bit too big.

But, these differences are a wash when compared to picking the tires that will give me the most mileage. I will go with mileage.

Guys, come on, post your tires and mileage... or, are all you wusses, still on your original dealer supplied tank of gas????? :roll:

ken (27,500)
 

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rear tire

All in all what would be the best pick for the rear tire ? look's like the 210 (you were thinking to stick with) as possibly some agility issue, would you then recomand the 190 just to be a bit larger then the stock?
 

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Tires

I have 20,600 mile on my Rune. (1,160 in one day)

My fourth front tire is a Metzeler 130/70/18.(wing tire)

I got 5,000+ from my first d251, around 7,000 each on the next 2, D251s after I bumped up the pressures to 42psi. I have 2000 on this metz and wonder how well its going to do. So far its been great and seems to wear well.

The rear tire is my second D251. I got about 12,000 out of the first rear. Not bad. This one will be gone shortly.
I have a metzeler 210 rear standing by when the 251 is out of rubber so the tires will match.

When you check manufacturer web pages, a 120 dunlop is to small to safely fit on a 4 inch front rim. Thats why I went with the 130 Metz.
Also, you are over max on tire load rating with a 120 tire.
A 170 rear is to small to fit on a 6 inch rear rim.

The 130 and 210 are a matched set. Load rating adequate. And about 100 bucks less a set than the stock tires.

Metzeler 880
130/70/18 front
210/50/17 rear

available at www.ronayers.com
 

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Sherry got 7600 out of stock front tire. Replacing with stock front. She still have plenty of miles left on the stock rear.

I got 8000 out of stock front...replaced with stock front. i am about to replace the rear...it's at 11000. probably will go with stock....THIS time.

Oh, sherry has 7600 on her bike and i have 11000 on mine.
 

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tires

Stock rear does pretty good. I got 12k or so from the first one.

Front tire starts to cup at about 6K, at 7.5k its pretty much toast if you want to stay safe, change it.
 

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Tire replacement

Could those of you that have had a Honda dealer change your tire(s) report on what you were charged for tires and/or labor? While I'll probably end up removing the wheels myself, it would be nice to know what to expect from a dealer if it becomes necessary.

Thanks,

john
 

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for me...both Runes have had front changed. They charged me 2 hours labor. Rear about to be changed.

oh yea, they scratched Sherry's front fender during tire change. ANother fender is on the way. Grrr.........
 

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472.....dang...better jump on that. My dealer charged me ....FOR JUST THE FRONT TIRE....369 out the door. It will be at least another 300 or so to do the rear. 472 to do BOTH....with labor...out the door. Wish you lived closer to me......
 

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Tim:

Your house to mine is only 185 miles or 3 hours. Setup the change out for a Saturday and stay over at my place either Friday or Saturday and save a lot of money.

The tires must be pre ordered as they do not stock them. I'm going to replace mine after your Cheaha rally.
 

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tires

Runeman,
Your dealer is clueless. Its almost 400 bucks just for stock tires. Just check around. Labor is an additional $300. (1.5 hours per tire) I dont think he's done them before. My shop charged me $100 labor the first time they did the front tire. Next time it was $150 labor for each (front and rear) $330 total and I supplied the tires. They learned. :lol:
 

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i tend to agree. My dealer has now changed both my Rune front tires....and they won't budge on that labor. they tried to take some shortcuts this time...to get the labor rate down...and that's how they scratched the front fender. They had to wind up doing the whole job over again...basically...to replace front fender...and...to put a new valve stem on (they forgot to do that the first time they changed it). I always want a new valve stem with every tire change. It's cheap insurance. I didn't use to demand that. but then i had valve stems failures.....on BOTH tires...on my Valk, within two months of each other. the back wasn't so bad....came out one morning and back tire was almost flat in the garage. Just and inconvenience.

but the front....failed on a group ride...a long way from home. Almost crashed...and had to get a trailer to get bike back home. It was a pain. So it's new valve stems for me EVERY tire change now.

But again, i also find it hard to believe you could get 'it all' for just 462. but then...i didn't think there would be an "05" either :oops: Of course, you have to order the front tire from Honda....and the price both times...for me...was almost 200. rear is also about 200. Direct line charges 180 for rear and 170 for front. I doubt you could find them for much less? So that's 350 for tires. So a dealer would have to install BOTH tires for about 100 labor or a little less. If this were a "normal" bike, i'd say heck yea. But on this one, you have to pull off the fenders to do both tires.

i'll be shocked if anyone can get that done for under 500 total. But again, i didn't think there would be an '05' model either.....though in my mind, for all practical purposes, there still isn't :wink:
 

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Tire Wear

I changed my front at 8500...badly needed. My rear looked like new even at 11,000. I increased my tire pressure from 35 to 42lbs cold for front and rear to follow what most on this board are using. I noticed this weekend that my rear is now showing quite a bit of wear in the center....13,000 miles. My front has 4500 and seems to be wearing a bit better than the first tire. I am dropping my rear pressure back to 38lbs cold to see if I can distribute the wear a bit better...but I am leaving my front at 42. Will the different pressures cause much of a problem...I didn't really notice a difference riding this week. I was very surprised by the sudden wear... should have been more gradual..only thing that I can attribute it to is the extra air...unless tire wear on this bike is sudden and swift.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On all of my rear tires 4 (on #5 now), the larger sizes wore out in the center rather quickly.

Now that I have a spare set of wheels, I am going to kit them out with fresh rubber and keep them in the garage. That way, I dont have to hassle with leaving my Rune on the lift while I go to the dealer to get them to mount new rubber. I can take my time, but make the Nascar tire change and get back on the road.

After doing the front wheel, and taking my sweet time at it, admire, turn a wrench, smoke, admire, read the manual..... I am convinced that we should be doing our own wheel changes. There are too many ways to screw up. Plus, you get a chance to clean body components that are inaccesible otherwise, and perhaps, tweak the rear shock absorber adjustment.

I also trust MY torque wrenches, and I know the threads are clean, with a tiny bit of antisieze where needed before I reinsert nuts and bolts. You know you wont get that kind of attention at the shop....and they don't like you watching.

Well, i have 4,000 miles to go before I need to check the valve lash. I will be doing that MYSELF. I don't expect to need to replace any shims, but, if it were at the shop... you better believe that the tech is going to find some shims that will need replacing!!!!!

Does anyone have data on how long a Gold Wing clutch lasts? I wonder if we can expect the same life out of the Rune clutch.... :?

ken (29,780 miles)
 
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